Bánh Đúc: A Soulful Warmth

Discover the soulful warmth of Vietnam in bánh đúc.

Lime Water – Old Rice

In the early 17th century, Chỉ Nam Ngọc Âm described and included bánh đúc as one of Vietnam’s traditional cakes: “Can Di bánh đúc on sieve” (Khoa học Xã hội Publishing House 1985, p. 116). Bánh đúc was likely the most frequently prepared cake in households and also the favored snack in pre-war Northern Vietnam prior to 1945.

A true bánh đúc is incomplete without lime water. To create lime water, the lumps or powder of quicklime are mixed with water. A small amount of water yields a white, thick mixture once consumed with betel by ancient Vietnamese women. A larger quantity of water, left to settle and then decanted, produces the lime water essential for the cake. 

This lime water is utilized both to soak the rice and, in a lesser proportion, to blend with water and rice flour for the cake’s preparation. The Vietnamese have recorded the ideal lime-water ratio in a memorable adage: “Too little lime makes cake mushy, too much lime makes it smelly.”

The rice flour used in bánh đúc is typically made from aged paddy rice, specifically those grains that have been stored for about a year. This aged paddy rice is drier, which results in a stickier and more water-absorbent flour upon milling. However, as manual milling has become less common and paddy rice cannot always be milled on demand, people have transitioned to using naturally dry and absorbent rice varieties, such as Khang Dan rice.

“The rice must be ground to a fine powder, and the lime water must be measured precisely. The mixture should be stirred well, and once cooled, it should be firm but not hard. A properly made cake will be crispy yet chewy when bitten into, never tough.” This culinary wisdom comes from writer Vu Bang, an enthusiast of bánh đúc. He describes the perfect one as smooth on the palate, with a fragrant aroma that enhances the experience, especially when interspersed with bits of coconut or peanuts, making it utterly delectable. (Miếng Ngon Hà Nội, Văn Học Publishing House, 1994, p. 50)

As rice flour is mixed with lime water and heated, it slowly thickens, becoming as white and smooth as porcelain. The mixture transforms into a thick creamy ivory substance that cascades onto a large bamboo sieve, lined with banana leaves. It forms a round, voluptuous shape, which is then divided into smaller portions by the swift glide of a gleaming knife. At times, the flour willingly settles into shallow broad bowls, then emerges to rest atop the sieve, glowing pale and luminous like a delicate moon. 

To the ancient Vietnamese, bánh đúc must have symbolized a tender affection, akin to a love that knows no bounds:

“Upon the sieve, bánh đúc lies,

A tender craft beneath the skies.

With open heart, I offer thee,

A trade of joy, so full and free.” (Folk song)

Such a subtle and witty praise of free love is no less apt than the proverbs and idioms about cooked rice.

Bánh đúc pairs delightfully with boiled peanuts, which is often added to the cake, giving it a bit of crunch. But what truly completes the dish? The dipping sauce! 

Vu Bang enjoyed his bánh đúc dipped in roasted sesame or a tangy fish sauce enriched with vinegar and chili. He had a particular fondness for the rich and sweet taste of fermented soybean paste. In the North, it’s savored with a zesty shrimp paste that’s been seasoned with lemon, chili, and garlic. Those in Central Vietnam prefer it with mắm nêm, a pungent fermented fish sauce, or mắm rạm, a paste made from small crabs. Last but not least, bánh đúc also pairs well with succulent braised pork and fish.

Sensational Variations: Bánh Đúc Nộm – Sốt

On a sweltering day, a bowl of bánh đúc nộm offers a refreshing break. The cake is cut into long slender strips. Crisp bean sprouts and golden roasted peanuts seem to dance together. Rice paddy herbs and Vietnamese lemon mint, a vibrant jade green, pair beautifully with the deep purple of perilla leaves. 

The most striking is the thinly sliced tender core of banana trunk resembling “pure white lace” (Vu Bang, p. 51). The cool, milky broth radiates an inviting aroma of sesame and peanuts. It’s a savory delight that rivals the coolness of any dessert.

Rivaling bánh đúc nộm is Thanh Hoa’s bánh đúc sốt. “Sốt” refers to its best-served-hot nature. The cake batter is nestled in a pot hidden in a straw bed within a bamboo basket, emanating the earthy aroma of mustard greens, the savory scent of fried onions, and the distinct starchy fragrance of rice flour. Upon an order, the vendor ladles the steaming batter into a bowl, then gently covers it with a layer of tender steamed mung beans. The cake boasts a vibrant green hue, topped with mung beans as fluffy as cotton.

According to a native of Thanh Hoa, “the burnt part of the pot is particularly delightful. It’s crispy and flavorful. If you wish to savor it, you must request the vendor to set it aside for you.’ (Hoang Son, “Who in Thanh Hoa hasn’t eaten Bánh Đúc Sốt?“). It is believed that the dish originated from Coc Ha village in Thanh Hoa city. For years, it has been an indelible part of the afternoon snack tradition for both children and adults in Thanh Hoa.

Soulful Varieties: Bánh Đúc Nóng and More

Hanoi’s winter breathes life into a unique culinary experience. The chill wind and a fine mist cast a dreamlike veil over the streets, where locals bundled in heavy coats find solace in the city’s gastronomic offerings. Among these, bánh đúc nóng stands out as a comforting respite.

This warm variant of bánh đúc boasts a slightly softer texture than its traditional counterpart, striking the perfect balance between tenderness and a satisfying bite. Kept in a perpetually heated pot, it promises to thaw the chill from your hands with its inviting heat. 

The dish is a symphony of flavors: minced meat sautéed with aromatic onions and a hint of fat, shiitake and wood-ear mushrooms adding a subtle earthiness, and crispy fried onions mingling with vibrant coriander leaves. A light tangy fish sauce enhanced with slivers of fresh red chili completes the ensemble. 

Amidst the coldness, one simply savors this heartwarming dish spoon by spoon, feeling the comforting warmth that life offers.

An exceptional variant of bánh đúc is paired with riêu cua, a delightful crab soup. The culinary artisans of Dang Xa village in Bac Ninh province meticulously uphold this tradition. Swirls of crab paste meander among lively green onions, plump red tomatoes, and tender green giant taro stems. The crimson crab fat is tender and smooth. The soup marries the robustness of fermented rice with the sharp zest of cowa fruit. As the gentle melodies of quan họ music fill the air, bánh đúc and crab soup become even more comforting and flavorful.

Sa Nam market, nestled in Nam Dan district of Nghe An, is renowned for its culinary delights, particularly bánh đúc and beef: 

“Sa Nam market, by the ferry’s side, 

Rows of bánh đúc, with beef so fine.”

(Folk song)

Yet, the fame of Nam Dan extends beyond these favorites, reaching as far as the basket clams of the Lam River. Tiny as a fingernail, yet bursting with flavor, these clams boast firm mantles that are expertly stir-fried with pork fat, onions, and a hint of shrimp paste. The resulting broth is rich, infused with the bold flavors of scallion and garlic chive. 

In addition to the traditional white bánh đúc, Nam Dan offers a variant made from brown rice. This rustic, brown-red cake harmonizes beautifully with the clam soup and stir-fried mantles, creating a version that is simple, yet deliciously satisfying.

Though humble, bánh đúc remains an essential element of Vietnamese cuisine. Amidst the influx of new culinary creations, a bowl of bánh đúc continues to offer a sense of fulfillment and warmth. It carries with it the essence of the Vietnamese countryside, nourishing not just the body but also the soul of those who enjoy it.

mlefood – Minh Lê