Daigo-ji and Ephemeral Beauty

Daigo-ji reveals its beauty amidst whispering leaves and ancient eaves.

With over ten centuries of history, Daigo-ji stands as one of Kyoto’s oldest temples. Founded in 874 atop Mount Daigo in southeastern Kyoto, it adheres to the Tantric sect, paying homage to both Buddha and Shinto deities.

Daigo-ji originally comprised two parts: the Upper Temple (Kami-daigo) crowning the mountain peak and the Lower Temple (Shimo-daigo) nestled at the mountain’s base. However, in the 16th century, Regent Toyotomi Hideyoshi transformed the sub-temple Sanbo-in into a delightful flower-viewing area as part of Daigo-ji. Additionally, the Reihokan Hall was renovated to safeguard precious Japanese cultural treasures. 

The Upper Temple is often closed, therefore Daigo-ji is most famous for its Sanbo-in and Shimo-daigo.

Mindfulness and Treasure: Sanbo-in and Reihokan

Not only was Toyotomi Hideyoshi resourceful and ambitious, but he also deeply appreciated refined arts, including the tea ceremony. Within the serene Sanbo-in garden, a harmonious blend of Zen aesthetics and Japanese gardening art unfolds.

Over 800 rocks, meticulously selected and arranged, encircle the tranquil pond gracing Sanbo-in’s front. Among them, three special rocks occupy distinct positions in the yard. Their surfaces are said to mirror the movements of Kamo River, Kyoto’s lifeblood. 

One rock displays swirling lines like a vortex in the abyss. Another rock boasts a smooth, reflective surface, embodying moments of stillness. The last rock evokes crashing waves upon a rocky shore. Their names are “whirling water, stagnant water, and broken water”. Doesn’t it sound like the ups and downs of a person’s life, rather than merely describing Kamo River?

The tranquil lake features two small islands: one resembling a turtle, the other poised like a crane about to take flight. These islands seem to symbolize wishes for longevity to viewers. Moss-covered stone bridges gracefully connect the islands to the shore.

Amidst the verdant trees, a waterfall’s murmur fills the air, lending a soothing ambiance. In this quiet haven, it is perfect to find solace on the airy wooden corridor, allowing your mind to settle. Alternatively, cradle a cup of hot tea in your hands, gaze beyond and let your eyes wander.

Alas, I lacked the credentials of a powerful shogun or the reverence of a monk at Daigo-ji. No VIP seat for me! Undeterred, I continued my tour, marveling at the splendor within. 

The doors inside left me utterly astounded. As they slid aside, they unveiled an airy expanse. When closed, they transformed into vivid landscape paintings with scenes as diverse as the majestic Aoi-matsuri festival in Kyoto, delicate spring blossoms, graceful birds, and the rich hues of autumn foliage. Truly, these doors deserve to be declared National Treasures of Japan.

As I stepped out of the house, my eyes were drawn to the black gate adorned with brilliant gold-plated flowers. Ah, the Imperial Messenger Gate (Karamon)! The chrysanthemum, symbolizing the Japanese Imperial Family, stood proudly. And those paulownia flowers and leaves? Once part of the Toyotomi clan crest during Hideyoshi’s reign as family head, they later evolved into the symbol of the Japanese government.

Now, when might this noble gate swing open? Its grandeur is reserved exclusively for the most distinguished guests: members of the Imperial Family or high-ranking government representatives. However, there is an exception. It does open once a year during the annual Cherry Blossom Festival at Daigo-ji.

The Cherry Blossom Festival takes place on the second Sunday of April. Back in 1598, after planting 700 cherry trees at Daigo-ji, Regent Hideyoshi hosted a grand cherry blossom viewing party, attended by over 1,300 guests. Families of generals, nobles, and wealthy merchants from all corners of Japan joined the festivities. 

Fast-forward to today, and you’ll find Kyotoites donning Hideyoshi-era attire as they pass through the Karamon to partake in the Cherry Blossom Festival. The procession, from the elderly to children clad in ancient costumes, remains remarkably orderly and solemn, even under the scorching sun.

Nestled opposite Sanbo-in, the Reihokan houses a treasure trove of over a hundred thousand artifacts. Each exhibition unveils a unique array of historical wonders. Among them, the wood-carved statues of gods and Buddhas come alive with intricate details, down to the finest grain.

Just beyond the Reihokan’s solemn halls lay a charming French-style café. Here, green tea ice cream took center stage, cradling a crispy white macaron “shell.” Dark brown chocolate brownies served as sturdy “rocks,” while “pebbles” of almond crumbs scattered carelessly, creating a delicious tableau infused with Zen.

In this symphony of flavors, the sweetness of ice cream and macaron waltzed alongside the faint bitterness of green tea and the robust dark chocolate. Ah, life’s paradoxes: it is through bitterness that we truly savor the sweet moments.

Daigo-ji: Shimo-daigo – Where Tranquility Meets Beauty

Along the road leading to Shimo-daigo, five-century-old cherry trees stood contemplatively. Their sturdy, weathered trunks bore rough, mossy bark. Unlike other cherry trees we had encountered in Japan, the ones at Daigo-ji possessed distinct characters.

Some cherry trees burst forth with two-layered blossoms, while others boasted petals twice the size of their ordinary counterparts. But the pièce de résistance was the “weeping cherries of Shogun.” These majestic trees draped their branches downward, creating a delicate pink curtain that swayed in the breeze. We felt so fortunate to be at Daigo-ji at the right moment to witness the blossoms.

Unlike the grandeur of Chion-in’s Sanmon gate, the Niomon at Daigo-ji stands humbly. Its red-painted wooden structure bears the marks of time, weathered and wise. Flanking this gate are imposing statues of Nio, the temple’s guardians. Their duty? To fend off not only evil spirits but also the audacious thieves who dare to disturb the temple’s serenity.

To fulfill this difficult task, Nios have faces etched with determination, muscles taut, and weapons poised for action. They always appear in pairs. One opens his mouth, releasing the resonant sound “a,” while the other closes his mouth, completing the sacred syllable “um.” Together, they weave the cosmic mantra “A-um” or “Om”, an echo of the universe in Buddhism.

Assured of my pure intentions, I stepped calmly through the Niomon. The Kondo Hall, ancient and unpretentious, presented the Medicine Buddha in serene meditation. Flanking the Buddha were two devoted Bodhisattvas, and behind them stood the Four Heavenly Kings, their serious eyes ever watchful.

Yet, something struck me: the absence of incense smoke and donation boxes. Here, reverence flowed through clasped hands, not burnt offerings. Perhaps the truest devotion lies not in material gifts, but in the quiet moments of connection.

Near the Kondo hall, the Five-Story Pagoda (Goju-no-to) stands as a silent witness – the oldest surviving structure in Kyoto. Emperor Suzaku commissioned its construction in 936 as a heartfelt prayer for his father, Emperor Daigo. After relinquishing the throne, Daigo had donned the monk’s robe and breathed his last at Daigo-ji.

Emperor Daigo’s life unfolded like an alluring tale. Ascending the throne at the tender age of 12, he ruled unwaveringly for 33 years. Daigo stood as a valiant leader, steering the ship of state without relying on advisors. His love for poetry was unmatched, and he etched his name in history by commissioning the compilation of the Kokinshu – a treasury of Japan’s most exquisite verses. Beyond the courtly affairs, Daigo lived a romantic saga, with 21 wives and 36 children.

As I continued my journey, a serene blue lake materialized before me. Nestled among the sprawling trees, a small temple and a curved red bridge came into view. This tranquil haven is none other than Bentendo temple, devoted to the Goddess of Knowledge and Art.

Tourists often fall head over heels for this scene at Daigo-ji, especially during the fall season. At that time, Bentendo is cocooned in the fiery hues of maple leaves mingling with the golden ginkgo foliage. All set against the lush green backdrop of mountains and forests, with the clear blue sky mirrored in the tranquil waters. It’s a landscape that whispers poetry to the soul.

With unwavering resolve, we ventured along the path toward Kami-daigo. Gnarled branches reached skyward, the ancient trees bearing silent witness to centuries past. Somewhere, a babbling brook shared its secrets with the wind. The crisp, invigorating air enveloped us like a cherished cloak, woven by time itself.

Forest leaves thickened with each step, creating a golden carpet under our feet. It was then that Luu Trong Lu’s words danced into my mind: “Don’t you hear the autumn forest, the rustling of leaves, the bewildered golden deer, stepping upon the dry yellow foliage?” 

The autumn forest at Daigo-ji was quite poetic; does it not awaken  any poet’s soul? Indeed, an anonymous bard penned a 17-word verse, forever enshrined in the Kokinshu collection:

“The gusting wind
             shows itself
                     in a cloak of many colors:
    a scattering of
                   autumn leaves.”

(Kokinshu No 290, translated by Lewis Cook)

As we departed Daigo-ji, a sense of lightness and ease enveloped us: a mere appreciation of beauty, unburdened by specific desires. Could it be that the lives of two significant figures associated with Daigo-ji had subtly woven their influence into our thoughts?

Emperor Daigo drew his final breath within the sanctuary of his beloved temple, yet his mortal remains rested elsewhere. Toyotomi Hideyoshi departed this world mere months after the Cherry Blossom Party, never witnessing the completion of his cherished Sanbo-in. How fleeting life truly is!

In that poignant moment, I felt profound gratitude toward them. Through their existence, descendants could savor the exquisite poetry and behold the enchanting vistas of Daigo-ji. Life, ephemeral as a passing cloud outside the window, teaches us a valuable lesson. May we all be such clouds, drifting through existence with open hearts and eyes attuned to the transient wonders around us.

mlefood – Minh Lê