Sparkling Candied Areca Nuts and More

Ever tasted the candied areca nuts, beach almond nuts, and roselle?

With Tet just over a month away, the cold wind starts to bite, stirring a sudden craving for a warm cup of tea and a dash of sweetness. How about some unique candied treats? Imagine savoring candied areca nuts from the Southwest of Vietnam, indulging in candied beach almond seeds that journey all the way from Con Dao island, and delighting in candied roselle from the floral haven of Da Lat. 

Candied Areca Nuts (Mứt Cau Kiểng)

Not only does Hue boast tall areca trees but the Southwest is also home to many of them, particularly ornamental varieties. Standing in front yards, these ornamental areca trees bear slender fruit that differs from the rounder areca fruits used for betel nut chewing. As they age, the fruits turn bright red. In the past, Southwesterners sometimes made candied areca nuts (mứt cau kiểng) to enjoy with their families during Tet. Today, candied areca nuts have gained wider recognition and appreciation.

To make candied areca nuts, you need to choose nuts that are just in their prime – not too old and not too young. A bunch of green areca nuts from top of the tree lands on the kitchen. The nuts endure a process, revealing their honeyed centers that resemble amber. After being tempered multiple times in rice water or water mixed with lemon juice, the areca nuts shed their bitterness and astringency, becoming supple and ready for their next transformation.

Sugar and lemon juice make friends with the nuts, while vibrant red spiny gourd (gấc) juice joins in for a lucky hue. After a few hours, they all go together into the pan. The warm fire hums a gentle lullaby, allowing them to infuse deeply into each other. Once done, candied areca nuts bask in the gentle sunlight, letting the thin crystallized sugar layer set on the outside to protect them and make them last longer. Chewy and sweet, a little sour, and brilliantly red, candied areca nuts emerge as the new beauty queens among this year’s Tet candied treats.

Then perhaps two young people, or even those not so young anymore, will share a candied areca nut and silently recite the folk song:

“We share an areca nut, 

Wear the same patched shirt dyed in brown. 

I’ll wait till the sieve finds the rice, 

The wind lights the moon, and she sets me alight.”

In the Vietnamese version, the word “bén” in the idiom “củi bén lửa” (the wood catches fire), is used elegantly for three different actions. This word choice not only unifies the actions but also evokes a sense of charm by symbolizing the magical moment when wood catches fire. This poetic and vivid imagery adds a layer of uniqueness and romance to the folk song, making it particularly captivating, especially since the metaphor revolves around something as simple as an areca nut.

But even if you don’t have areca nuts, or haven’t had time to buy candied areca nuts for Tet, don’t worry. There’s another folk song:

“There is betel leaf but no areca nuts,

Yet we’ll find a way to redden our lips.”

Reddening the lips for each other without betel leaves and areca nuts? Modern love poems would struggle to match the natural, playful, and subtly charming style of these verses!

Côn Đảo’s Candied Beach Almond Seeds (Mứt Hạt Bàng)

Côn Đảo, officially known as Con Son Island, is part of an archipelago in the Southeast Sea, within Ba Ria – Vung Tau province. Once infamous for its prison built during the French colonial period, Côn Đảo has transformed into a stunning eco-tourism destination, boasting both lush forests and pristine seas.

The island’s most populated area is distinguished by rows of ancient beach almond trees, their dark trunks and massive roots spanning as wide as several people can encircle. These majestic trees provide both shade and wind protection along Côn Đảo’s tranquil roads. While the exact date of their arrival on the island remains a mystery, these trees are known to be over a hundred years old.

From late December to March, the tree leaves transition from green to dark red, then gently fall with the wind. Come April, new buds begin to sprout all over the branches, and young green leaves unfurl like small fans fluttering in the sun. By June, the trees begin to bear fruit. The young fruit matures under the sun and wind, eventually ripening. The night winds weave through the foliage, sending the fruit on a new adventure. During this time, every morning, Con Dao residents diligently gather the fallen fruit to make candied beach almond seeds.

The fruit is dried in the sun for a week, turning the shell dry and sandy-colored. The dried fruit, oval-shaped like a large clam, contains a small seed. Con Dao women skillfully wield heavy, sharp knives to cut through the tough shells, ensuring the seeds remain intact. A day’s labor yields just one kilogram of seeds. These seeds are then roasted and mixed with caramelized ginger syrup. They are stirred continuously until the seeds are dry and crispy.

Candied beach almond seeds (mứt hạt bàng) boast a crispy, sweet outer shell and a rich, flavorful center with a warm aroma of ginger. Once a simple homemade snack, they have now become a beloved souvenir for tourists visiting Con Dao.

Đà Lạt’s Candied Roselle (Mứt Hoa Hồng)

In Da Lat, they call it candied rose (mứt hoa hồng), but it’s actually made from the vibrant roselle (hoa bụp giấm). Since roselle is also known in Vietnamese as hồng hoa (pink flower), it’s easy to see why this treat earned its floral nickname.

Roselle flowers flaunt light pink petals and deep red calyces. As the petals fall and the seed pod forms, the calyces wrap around it, creating a look that’s as delightful as it is delicious. These calyces are crispy, juicy, and sour. Locals often use a small knife to carefully cut the green stem at the bottom, removing the seed pod and leaving the calyces intact, looking just like rose buds.

The pure white rock sugar slowly melds in the jar, softening and sweetening the calyces to release a pinkish-red, sweet and sour syrup. Strain the syrup and simmer the calyces a bit longer, and you’ll have candied roselle as soft as kumquat jam, as sweet and sour as pickled plums, and as pretty as a rose.

This brings me to my quest to find authentic rose jam. The most famous is rose jam (Gül Reçeli) from Turkey, the country that practically bathes in roses. They marinate rose petals with sugar and simmer them over low heat with a splash of lemon juice to create a soft jam that can be spread on bread or enjoyed with yogurt and other treats.

Turkish rose jam exudes a fragrant rose aroma that might just outshine Da Lat’s candied roselle. But when it comes to flavor and appearance, Da Lat’s candied roselle is no wallflower – it might even steal the spotlight. Or am I just hopelessly biased?

In each ornamental areca nut, beach almond nut, and roselle used to make these candied treats, there lies a silent story of the makers’ meticulousness and dedication. This is what makes these treats even more special, beyond their unique flavor and attractive appearance. Try them, and you’ll feel each piece sparkle with dedicated sweetness. Let that sweetness touch your heart and bring a smile to your face with its exquisite taste.

mlefood – Minh Lê