Bulrush Pickles and Its Tangy Friends

Vietnamese pickles are diverse, featuring bulrush and more.

Vietnam boasts a trio of pickled delicacies that, while little known, are undeniably delicious and unique. These hidden gems include Phu Tho’s pickled cassava leaves from the North, the Central’s Indian taro stem pickles, and the Southwest’s pickled bulrush.

Phu Tho’s Zesty Cassava Greens (Rau Sắn Phú Thọ)

In the past, the rolling hills of Phu Tho province in Northern Vietnam were adorned with vast expanses of cassava plants. These resilient plants also flourished in gardens, along fences, and on the edges of fields. Perfectly suited for the hilly terrain, cassava thrived effortlessly and became a crucial staple during the challenging years.

No one knows exactly when the people of Phu Tho began the tradition of pickling cassava leaves and referring to them as cassava greens (rau sắn). However, not just any cassava leaves will do; only the tender young leaves of the local cassava species are suitable for making these pickles. The secret of the Phu Tho people lies in skillfully kneading the leaves repeatedly to release the bitter and pungent sap, ensuring a delightful pickle. This process requires a delicate touch, applying just enough force to soften the leaves without crushing them.

Young cassava leaves are fermented with salt in a clay pot for a few days. During this time, the leaves soften and transform from a vibrant green to a golden yellow, reminiscent of the autumn afternoon sunlight. Their familiar sour taste and the pungent aroma, similar to the earthy scent of wet soil after rain, evoke deep nostalgia for those from Phu Tho. It’s a flavor and fragrance that can bring tears to their eyes, stirring up memories and cravings.

Cassava greens, whether enjoyed on their own or stir-fried with eggs, make for excellent accompaniments to rice. However, the dish that truly consumes the most rice is when cassava greens are paired with small fish to create a rustic, comforting soup. The fish becomes tender, the cassava greens infuse the soup with rich flavors, and the broth achieves a perfect balance of sweet and sour.The soup is truly an unforgettable dining experience.

Cassava greens are versatile, pairing equally well with humble companions like peanuts and more sophisticated ones like spare ribs, pig’s feet, and lean meat. These ingredients contribute their rich, fatty flavors, while the cassava greens bring their strong, sour taste to the mix. Together, they create dishes that are both familiar and intriguingly different.

Tangy Indian Taro Stem Pickles (Dưa Môn)

In fact, the term “môn” might sound a bit unfamiliar in Vietnamese. In the Northern dialect, it’s known as dọc mùng, while in the Southern dialect, it’s called bạc hà, and in the Central region, it’s referred to as môn bạc hà. However, calling the pickled version dưa môn bạc hà is quite lengthy, so it’s simply shortened to dưa môn.

Indian taro often thrives around wells or in low-lying areas with abundant water. These water-loving plants grow tall and lush, thanks to the plentiful moisture. When chopped into small pieces and cooked in sour soup, the soft, spongy stems absorb the sweet and sour broth beautifully. However, when transforming it into pickles, you need to channel your inner chef and be extra cautious. Otherwise, you might end up with the infamous “unstoppable itchy” dưa môn – a quirky misadventure that’s sure to be unforgettable for all the wrong reasons!

The taro stems are sun-dried until wilted, then washed and cut into pieces. Some people prefer to peel off the outer skin before cutting, while others leave it intact. Though the kneading process isn’t as intense as with cassava greens, taro stems still need to be thoroughly squeezed in salt water to release all the itchy sap. And don’t forget to remove all the black-dotted skin and the tiny taro heart found in the innermost stems – these contain the substances responsible for the infamous “unstoppable itchy” version mentioned above.

Soaked in a mixture of salt water and washing rice water, with a hint of sugar to aid fermentation, the taro stems transform into a golden yellow, lightly fragrant delight after five to seven days. The squeezed taro stem pickles are chewy and sour, making them irresistibly delicious when dipped in the sauce of braised fish or meat. 

If desired, you can cook the pickles directly in the braised fish pot for an equally tasty treat. Stir-frying them with garlic results in an excellent dish, and cooking them in sour soup creates a completely different flavor compared to when using fresh taro stems. There seems to be an amazing secret in the salt water mixed with washing rice water that makes the pickles so rich and delicious.

In the North Central region, the taro stem pickles of Nghe An – Ha Tinh people are known as dọc mùng muối chua, often shortened to dưa mùng. Dưa mùng mixed with garlic, chili, and thinly sliced lemon leaves, creates a mouthwatering combination when enjoyed with grilled rice paper and acetes paste. It’s so delicious it might just make you bite your tongue! dưa mùng can be tossed with boiled pork belly, garlic, chili, sugar, and topped with fragrant roasted peanuts to create a savory salad. Dưa mùng is a beloved dish of Nghe people, contributing to the rich and unique culinary identity of Nghe-Tinh.

Bulrush Pickles (Dưa Bồn Bồn)

Unlike cassava and Indian taro, bulrush thrives wild in the low-lying fields and riverbanks of southwestern provinces such as Soc Trang, Bac Lieu, and Ca Mau. Its tall, slender stems resemble sedge, its long, thin leaves are akin to rice leaves, and its brown, fluffy flowers look like cat’s tail. Once considered food for the poor in the Southwest, bulrush has now transformed into a coveted organic vegetable, sought after in luxury restaurants.

The rainy season in the Southwest begins in June. After the refreshing rains, the bulrushes grow tall, with their green outer layers enveloping the tender white cores. The morning wind gently caresses them, making them sway gracefully. The sounds of people wading in the water mix with laughter and rustling leaves, creating a symphony of life. 

The fresh, succulent inner parts of the bulrushes reveal themselves as the outer layers are stripped away, neatly arranged on the boat. The water whispers its farewell, knowing that the bulrush roots left behind will quickly sprout and grow anew. Mother Nature is always generous to us, as long as we do not over-exploit her gifts and allow her time to rest and rejuvenate.

Once the bulrush is brought home, more layers are stripped away to reveal the tender young core, which is then split in half and soaked in a mixture of salt water and rice water. After a few days, the bulrush pickles are ready: crispy, sweet, and slightly sour. The white stems are as soft as lotus shoots and carry a hint of the wild flavor of young bamboo shoots.

A simple yet delightful dish enjoyed by the poor in the West is bulrush pickles combined with salty purple-red episesarma crabs, lemon, and chili, served with cold rice. Bulrush pickles can also be included in a salad with shrimp or snails from the ditches, or paired with dried fish, a favorite during the rainy season.

Ca Mau province now boasts the largest area of bulrush cultivation in the Southwest, as farmers proactively plant bulrush in the flooded fields. Bulrush roots help filter the water and require no fertilizers or pesticides, allowing farmers to release fish into the fields to grow naturally. Highly valued by the people of Ca Mau, bulrush repays them with a better quality of life. Some young entrepreneurs have even built successful businesses by planting bulrush alongside water lilies, raising fish in the water, and growing bananas and coconuts on the banks.

Simple yet unique – that’s what these three fascinating pickles have in common. Zesty cassava greens, tangy Indian taro stem pickles, and sweet, crunchy bulrush pickles each represent the magic of nature combined with the skillful hands of humans. How can you not fall in love with these delightful pickles! 

mlefood – Minh Lê