Ke Rice Paper and His Unique Brothers

Join me in discovering Ke rice paper and his remarkable brothers.

As promised, this time I – your trusty Food Knight – will introduce you to three special brothers from our culinary community. Meet Ke rice paper from Ke village (Bac Giang province), Ha Tinh’s ram paper, and Hai Phong’s red rice paper. While they all belong to the rice paper family, each has his own unique character and charm. 

Ke Rice Paper

Among the daring brothers who like to play directly with fire, Ke rice paper (bánh đa Kế) stands out as the bravest. Big, thick, and topped with solid peanuts and sesame seeds, he leisurely engages with the flames. The person grilling him must be highly skilled, constantly flipping and spinning him while meticulously adjusting the charcoal fire. If the angry fire burns too hot, he’ll scorch; if the sad fire isn’t hot enough, he’ll turn tough and callous. Ke rice paper is one of the few who are always grilled before selling, showcasing his bold nature.

However, he is one of the most “handsome” guys in the neighborhood: big, muscular, and crispy, with a fragrant “perfume” of roasted peanuts and sesame. He possesses a natural sweet character, not the sugary kind, but the honest sweetness of delicious rice and sweet potatoes. His hidden charm lies in the subtle salty joy from salt and the playful, nutty taste of peanuts and sesame. Once you become friends with him, it’s hard to let go. His irresistible charm captivates all on his own, needing no accompaniment to shine.

There’s a reason behind his irresistible charm. Firstly, he’s nurtured not just with rice, but also with yellow sweet potatoes and cooked rice, giving him a honey-colored, firm skin. Secondly, he’s actually a pair of twins; when the first layer of batter is just cooked, he’s coated with a second layer. No wonder he’s so strong, effortlessly carrying a generous load of peanuts and sesame seeds on his body.

He takes immense pride in his hometown – Ke Village in Bac Giang province, an ancient village in the historic Kinh Bac area. Legend has it, the village has stood for over 600 years, and he was born several hundred years ago. Despite his age, his spirit remains eternally youthful. He enthusiastically shares tales of the Ke Pagoda Festival held every second lunar month, about the esteemed first-ranking scholar Giap Hai (1517–1586) from Ke Village, who later became a talented Prime Minister during the Mac dynasty, and about the lyrical Quan Ho melodies. Wherever he goes, joy follows, making him beloved by all.

Ha Tinh’s Ram Paper

The second brother from Ha Tinh is always gentle and protective, using his body to safeguard the fried spring rolls. Known locally as bánh ram in Ha Tinh and bánh đa nem (rice paper for fried spring rolls) to the outside world, he stands out among us. While many of us pair well with Viet spring rolls, ram paper is the most beloved.

He carries within him the secrets of the Ha Tinh people, particularly their unique use of molasses and special drying method. Molasses is mixed into the flour batter in a secret ratio, ensuring the ram paper crisps to a perfect golden color when fried. Unlike most of us who are dried once, ram paper undergoes a special “one dew, two suns” process, drying overnight and for two days. This gives him the right toughness to prevent tearing during wrapping or cracking when fried, while remaining soft enough to roll without needing to be dipped in water.

Ram paper hails from Binh Village in Thach Hung Ward, Ha Tinh City. Nearby, you’ll find the renowned Thach Kenh molasses kilns, famous for their rich, flavorful molasses. Perhaps it was this abundance that inspired the people of Binh Village to mix molasses into the batter, creating our unique brother, ram paper.

Ram paper is an indispensable part of Ha Tinh-style ram bánh mướt, where the crispy spring roll is wrapped in the soft bánh mướt (steamed rice paper), forming a delightful contrast that harmonizes perfectly. I’ll share more about this dish in the upcoming episode featuring my sister, the steamed rice paper.

Hai Phong’s Red Rice Paper

Our red rice paper (bánh đa đỏ) from Hai Phong has been part of our family for nearly a hundred years. Though he belongs to the rice paper family, his appearance is quite unique. With a long, wide, dark red body, he sometimes feels a bit sad when people classify him as part of the pho noodle family. We constantly reassure him, especially brother ram paper, who proudly declares that red rice paper is his real brother. They both share the rich color of molasses, with the only difference being that red rice paper is mixed with caramel instead of molasses.

Red rice paper is quite modern, having been born in industrialized establishments, mainly in Du Hang Kenh Ward, Hai Phong City. Fresh red rice paper is enjoyed daily in Hai Phong, Hanoi, and neighboring areas, while the dried version is distributed nationwide.

Red rice paper takes center stage in the famous Hai Phong bánh đa cua (crab and red rice paper soup). He also shines in stir-fried dishes and, since the 2010s, in mixed red rice paper dishes (bánh đa trộn). His unique blend of toughness and softness pairs perfectly with meat, boiled eggs, Vietnamese coriander, and a salty, sweet, sour, and spicy sauce to create an irresistibly delicious dish.

You see, our rice paper family is both sophisticated and creative, embodying traditional beauty while also being very modern. Next time, I’ll take you to the South to meet more fascinating brothers. See you again soon!

mlefood – Minh Lê