Fish Noodle: A Slurp-Worthy Soup!

One fish noodle soup, three regional souls, a thousand lingering tastes. 

Think a fish noodle dish is simple fare, just noodles and fish, right? Oh, honey, you’ve got another think coming! The fish noodle variations of the North, Central, and South are like triplets with wildly different personalities. So, grab your chopsticks, and let me spin you a yarn about this delectable fish noodle experience, a tale as charming as the very strands of bún.

Northern Fish Noodle: An Elegant Whisper

Our culinary journey begins in the North, where the Northern fish noodle presents a delicate, graceful charm, much like a shy Kinh Bac maiden.

The undeniable star of this fish noodle in the North is the crispy, golden-fried fish, each bite a delightful crunch that gives way to flaky tenderness. This is partnered with a subtly sour and shimmering broth, its secret lying in giấm bỗng – that uniquely Northern fermented rice vinegar. The broth, simmered with sweet fish bones, is artfully dotted with vibrant red tomato wedges, and sunny yellow pineapple chunks that wink like chrysanthemum petals. And let’s not forget the fresh dill, the verdant scallions, and the slightly peppery water celery – essential players in the Northern flavor orchestra of this fish noodle.

But hold your horses! If you think the Northern fish noodle is a one-note wonder, think again! 

Head to Hai Phong, and you’ll encounter a rebellious cousin: fiery, lightly sour, with a lingering sweetness, and boasting slices of wonderfully chewy fried fish cake and crunchy elephant ear stem (dọc mùng). Some even cheekily call it bún dọc mùng, but lately, the moniker bún cay Hải Phòng (spicy Hai Phong fish noodle) has gained traction – just the name makes your tongue tingle! And the extravagance doesn’t stop there; pork intestines, blood sausage, and fish stomach join the party, turning a simple fish noodle soup into a lavish and utterly tempting feast.

Interestingly enough, flipping through the pages of old cookbooks reveals a different take on Hanoi fish noodle back in the 1930s. The old-timers meticulously grilled the fish over charcoal to banish any fishiness, then extracted the sweet essence from crushed fish bones. No tomatoes, no pineapple, no giấm bỗng in sight! 

The flaked fish, briefly sautéed with fish sauce and pepper, was laid atop the noodles with scallions, dill, and water celery, before the piping hot broth was ladled over. Classic, refined, yet deeply flavorful. (According to Ẩm Thực Tu Tri by Vương thị Thu Hương, Tân Dân Publishing House, 1930, p. 98). This historical preparation showcases the evolution of the fish noodle.

And let’s not overlook the humble fish noodle stalls in the Northern countryside, where the rustic flavors of the land seep into every strand of noodle and every morsel of fish.

Fat perch (cá rô đồng) is gently boiled, its meat flaked and lightly stir-fried with a touch of fish sauce. The broth, sweet and clear, is born from crushed fish bones. Freshly made round rice noodle, snow-white and silky smooth, is the base of the show. A sprinkle of scallions, Vietnamese coriander, and fragrant dill completes the picture. 

All this is often served from a simple mobile cart, with tiny wooden stools gathered around a small table, where down-to-earth villagers savor their morning treat of fish noodle. The magic of this rustic version lies in the freshness of the ingredients, the warmth of human connection, and the peaceful ambiance of the rural market – a scene that may now exist only in cherished memories.

Central Fish Noodle: A Salty Kiss from the Sea

Leaving the North, we journey southward to the sun-drenched Central region, where fish noodle carries the bold, briny kiss of the ocean.

Stretching along the coastal strip from Quang Binh to Ninh Thuan, the people here hold the bounty of the sea in high regard. Fish noodle in the Central region primarily comes in two forms: bún cá (fish noodle) and bún chả cá (fish cake noodle), sometimes even a delightful fusion of both.

The fish of choice for fish noodle are often tuna and sailfish, prized for their sweet and firm flesh. The fish cakes, chả cá, are crafted from lizardfish and barracuda, boasting few bones and a wonderfully umami taste and chewy texture, adding another dimension to the Central fish noodle. A vibrant platter of fresh herbs with lettuce, fragrant greens, shredded banana blossom, and bean sprouts, is indispensable for enjoying the dish. 

And let’s not forget three dip sauces: the thick and sweet fish sauce, the pungent mắm ruốc (fermented shrimp paste) which is a true Central coast signature, and the fiery red and green chili fish sauce that will make your taste buds sing (or maybe scream with delightful pain).

Bún cá ngừ (tuna noodle soup) simmered with fiery chili or gently braised with sweet tomatoes is often a cherished childhood memory for those growing up along the South-Central coast. Its golden broth, fragrant with the aroma of shallots and pepper, is enough to make your stomach rumble on cue. The chunks of tuna, with their contrasting white and dark meat, offer a uniquely sweet and firm bite. Silky rice noodle dances with the slightly bitter banana blossom, pungent herbs, and crunchy bean sprouts, all bathed in flavorful broth. The broth, clear and rich, delivers an unmistakable taste of the sea.

In Ninh Hòa, Khánh Hòa, you’ll find a special treat: bún lá cá dầm. Here, noodles come in circular bundles like pressed leaves, neatly arranged in each bowl. Instead of whole fish fillets, the fish is flaked and mixed into the piping hot broth. The contrast of emerald-green scallions against the soft white fish creates a dish so visually enticing that passersby can’t resist stopping for a bite.

And then there’s the bittersweet tale of Bún Cá Xóm Cồn in Nha Trang. A devoted wife once sold tuna fish noodles to make ends meet after her husband was lost at sea in a violent storm. Over time, she mastered the art of making fish cakes, and her stall in Chợ Đầm grew ever more popular. But even amidst her success, she never forgot the man who first dreamed up the dish with her. (Quách Giao, Cá tắm nắng, Hội Nhà Văn Publishing House, 2012) A bowl of fish noodles, in her case, carried more than just flavors – it held love, longing, and the essence of a life shared.

Southern Fish Noodle: A Bold Khmer Embrace

Finally, our taste buds arrive in the lush Mekong Delta, where the Southern fish noodle boasts a robust flavor profile, deeply influenced by Khmer cuisine.

At its heart is the humble snakehead fish (cá lóc). Instead of ginger, the locals employ ngải bún (fingerroot), lemongrass, and turmeric to create its distinctive aroma. Fresh ngải bún, with its subtle fragrance, harmonizes beautifully with the pungent lemongrass and earthy turmeric, effectively banishing any fishiness while lending a unique Southern flair to this fish noodle.

A touch of mắm ruốc (acetes paste), dried shrimp, and sometimes other fermented fish pastes amps up the richness. A sweet-sour mắm me (tamarind dipping sauce) adds the finishing touch. As for vegetables, the bowl brims with bean sprouts, bitter greens, shredded water spinach, and the most eye-catching element – bông điên điển (sesbania flowers) – which brighten up the dish like golden confetti.

The bowl of fish noodle, often called bún nước lèo, gleams with a rich golden hue, its fragrant broth cradling chunks of firm fish nestled amongst crispy fried garlic and lemongrass, all brightened by sprigs of fresh Vietnamese coriander, alongside a generous platter of raw vegetables, creating a complete and satisfying experience.

If you’re wondering how bánh canh cá (fish thick noodle) differs from bún cá (fish noodle), the answer is absolutely! It’s not just about the different types of noodles; the way they’re enjoyed also varies. Bánh canh skips the fresh veggies, as its origins lie in thick porridge. Bún cá, on the other hand, absolutely demands a generous serving of fresh greens. The broth textures vary too: bánh canh broth can be thick and rich, while fish noodle soup is lighter, often touched with tomatoes and the bold aromatics of turmeric and lemongrass.

Fish noodle soup is a wonderfully adaptable dish – perfect for any season, any occasion. No matter which part of Vietnam you visit, don’t miss a bowl of the local specialty! And why not take it a step further? Host a “three-region fish noodle festival” at home! Cook up three versions, invite your friends, and celebrate the unique flavors of Vietnamese cuisine. Trust me, it’ll be an unforgettable feast.

mlefood – Minh Lê