P1 Nem Nướng: The Origin Quest

Let’s savor nem nướng (grilled pork roll) with its delicious flavors and fascinating story!

A while ago, two good friends from Britain paid me a visit during their vacation in Vietnam. I decided to treat them to the local specialty of Khanh Hoa: Nem Nướng. 

That is grilled pork patties wrapped in rice paper with fresh herbs and dipped in a special sauce. They stared at the table, which was loaded with all sorts of stuff: greens, meat, sauce, you name it. They looked like they were about to cross a busy street in Vietnam: clueless and terrified. To help them out, I showed them how to make it.

Grab a piece of rice paper and dunk it quickly in some water to make it soft and pliable. Put on top a lettuce leaf and some fresh herbs, then pile on cucumber slices, tangy mango bits, crunchy pickles, green banana chunks and star fruit slices. Don’t forget the grilled pork patties and the fried roll. Wrap it all up like a burrito. Voila! You’ve got yourself a nem nướng.

Pour a bowl of dipping sauce, and sprinkle some roasted peanuts and chili sauce on top. Dip the roll, take a huge bite. Make sure it’s smothered in sauce. If you don’t want to make a mess on the table, just hold the bowl and the roll near your mouth and take a good bite. Yum!

They stared at me like I’m a magician, then copied every move I made. They enjoyed the rolls at a leisurely pace, then both gave me a thumbs up and declared: “Fantastic!”.

I quickly grabbed the chance to ask them how it tasted. “Salty, sweet, aromatic, hot, rich, a little tangy and bitter”. “Tender, crunchy, succulent”, the other chimed in. Then they broke into a chorus: “It’s a dish like no other!”

The meal went on with a lot of enthusiasm. We chatted about their Vietnam adventure on the road. As the host, I gave some explanations and tips. Then a curveball came my way: “Where in Vietnam does this grilled pork roll come from?” 

“That’s a good question”, I dodged, “it’s called nem nướng Ninh Hoa”. They didn’t buy my evasive answer. “So is Ninh Hoa the birthplace of nem nướng?” I laughed nervously: “Could be”.

My friends left me hanging with a culinary conundrum. How could I call myself a true foodie of Vietnamese cuisine if I couldn’t tackle this tasty challenge? So I swallowed my ego and got ready to rumble.

Challenge: The Origin Quest

Tracing the roots of a dish, especially a traditional one, is like finding a needle in a haystack. The best bet is to search in ancient books but sadly, they don’t say much about food, let alone when and where certain dishes were born. The next best thing is to listen to folk tales and legends. When those fail to satisfy, there’s only one thing left to do: check out how that dish has evolved in different places and make an educated guess.

I spent hours digging through old books, googling like crazy and pestering my Ninh Hoa buddies, but I couldn’t find any proof or anyone brave enough to claim that nem nướng was born in Ninh Hoa. 

That’s life, isn’t it? The truth is always playing hard to get. I decided to check out how nem nướng was formed in different places from North to South of Vietnam, hoping to find some clues about its origin.

A small note: Vietnamese people also call nem chua nướng (grilled fermented pork) as nem nướng, but this dish is different from the one I’m talking about. It belongs to the category of fermented pork, so I will leave it out of this article.

Historical Influence on Nem Nướng

You might think that nem nướng is the same all over Vietnam. But you’d be wrong. There are actually two distinct ways of making and eating this dish in the North and the rest of the country.

If you’re ever in the North from Cao Bang to Ha Tinh province, you could be in for the North’s nem nướng. The pork meat and skin are finely shredded and seasoned with salt, pepper and roasted rice powder for a balanced and complex flavor. Then they are wrapped in fragrant guava and banana leaves that enhance their aroma and texture. For a crispy and juicy bite, grill these patties right away. For a deeper and richer taste, leave them to ferment for a few days, then grill them.

If you’re looking for a fresh and spicy way to enjoy the North’s nem nướng, you’ll want to try them with ming aralia leaves. These crunchy and aromatic greens add a burst of flavor and contrast to the grilled patties. You can also dip them in a soya sauce and chili dip for some extra heat and tang. 

Some of the best places to find this style are Hữu Lũng (Lạng Sơn), Liên Chung (Bắc Giang) and Thọ Xuân (Thanh Hóa). And if you’re a fan of wine, you’ll love how the sour and meaty taste of their nem nướng complements your drink.

If you’re in the Central or South, you’ll get to taste a different version of nem nướng that will surprise you. They mince lean pork and season it with shallot, garlic, pepper, sugar, and pork fat. Then they shape them into balls or tubes and skewer them on bamboo sticks. They don’t wrap them before grilling like the North, but after. 

The grilled patties are rolled in thin rice paper with a mix of vegetables and fruits that add crunch and freshness. Nem nướng in this way is perfect for any occasion, whether you need a snack or a meal.

You may be curious about why nem nướng varies so much between the two regions. Well, it’s not just a matter of taste. It’s also a matter of history. The Gianh River in Quang Binh province was the dividing line that split Đàng Ngoài (the North) and Đàng Trong (the South) for over 150 years during the Trinh – Nguyen conflict in the 17th and 18th centuries. This long-standing separation might have shaped the culinary traditions of the two regions.

Since nem nướng Ninh Hòa is part of the Đàng Trong’s style, I will only focus on the versions that match its characteristics. But don’t worry, it won’t be dull at all. In my journey for nem nướng from the sandy central coast to the lush and green South, I have marveled at how it transforms itself in amazing and surprising ways like a talented movie star full of charisma.

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Tune in next week for its stunning variations.