P1 Geiko: Kyoto’s Elegance

Kyoto is synonymous with geiko (geisha in Kyoto dialect), the mysterious artists evoking a sense of timeless elegance. 

The spring night was fresh and chilly in Japan, with a clear and faintly starry sky. We stood at the mouth of the street, looking towards its end where stone alleys, wooden houses, and a few people in a hurry awaited us. The only warmth came from the street lamps, casting a gentle golden glow on the dark pavement.

The silence was so deep, we could hear our own breathing. Emi’s wooden clogs tapped on the empty street like a steady pulse. She was our local guide to the world of geisha in Gion (Kyoto) tonight. We followed her along the street, eager to catch a glimpse of that world.

World of Willows and Flowers 

In Kyoto, geisha are known as geiko, which means “artist” in the local dialect. Their apprentices are maiko, meaning “dancer”. Geiko emerged from the servers who offered tea and snacks to the pilgrims visiting Yasaka Shrine in Gion, Kyoto in the 18th century. They soon attracted the attention of the rich and powerful, who enjoyed their company and entertainment at the teahouses.

Geiko learned various skills and arts to charm their esteemed guests, such as playing instruments, singing, dancing, and conversing with wit and courtesy. They epitomized grace and elegance. Their service became so exclusive and costly that only a few select patrons could access it. Their clients were often wealthy, cultured and polite.

Kyoto once had six hanamachi districts, where geiko and maiko lived and worked, but now only five survive. These districts are called karyukai – “the world of willows and flowers”, because geiko and maiko are as graceful as willows and as lovely as flowers. Each district has several okiya, where geiko and maiko reside, and ochaya, where they entertain guests at night parties. Gion is the oldest, largest and best-preserved geisha tradition in Japan.

As I listened, I had a question that had been nagging me for a long time, but I didn’t know how to ask it politely. Emi sensed my hesitation and smiled: “Many people assume that geiko provide sexual services, but that is completely false. Geiko undergo rigorous training to master communication and many other arts, and these skills earn them a high status and income in Japanese society.”

I was amazed. How did she know the question on my mind? She must have either psychic powers or some geiko training, I guessed.

Geiko’s strength is art and culture, not inferior service. They dress themselves in elegant kimonos, precious jewelry, and mingle with many rich, powerful, and educated people. A renowned geiko makes hundreds of thousands of dollars a year and is a coveted bride among elite families for her communication skills and connections.

But to thrive in the “world of willows and flowers”, geiko and maiko have to be more than just graceful and lovely. They have to be like bamboo: flexible, persistent, and resilient.

Okasan: Custodian of the Geiko tradition

The career of maiko and geiko depends on one person: okasan, which means “mother” in Japanese. Okasan is the woman who runs the okiya. She is not only a mother figure but also a patron and a manager. She covers all the expenses for maiko: food, lodging, clothes, and lessons. She trains maiko how to act, speak, and belong in their hanamachi. Even after a maiko becomes a geiko and moves out, her okasan still manages her business.

Some okiyas in Gion and Kyoto have a long history of a few hundred years. They operate like small businesses, with okasan as the leader, maiko and geiko as the employees, and the helper, maid, cook, and accountant. Okiyas are traditionally all-female workplaces, and those who work there often form a lifelong family bond. Okasan has to manage the finances and run the okiya smoothly.

I asked a question that was stuck in my mind: “Okasan must be a wise and skilled person. How does one become an okasan?” 

The answer surprised me: “Okasan is not married but can have children. Okasan’s eldest daughter is expected to succeed her. She often trains as a geiko and takes over when her mother dies or retires. If okasan has no daughter, she will choose a successor from her maiko or geiko. A retired geiko can also open an okiya and become okasan, but it’s very rare, as okiyas need huge capital (for kimonos and jewelry) and strong relationships to survive.”

What Emi described that night later came to life in the figure of Okasan Ota Kimi in the captivating documentary “Pearl of Gion: Return of the Miyako Odori ” aired on NHK World Japan. Ota Kimi is a gentle woman with a kind face, soft voice, and a sweet smile. She is the eighth heir of Tomiyo, an okiya over 200 years old in Gion. As the seventh okasan’s daughter, Ota Kimi had a lover and wanted to marry, but she decided to stay with the okiya out of loyalty to her ancestors and devotion to Gion and the geiko traditions.

Ota Kimi is 83 years old now and has served as okasan for over four decades by the time of the film (2023). Being a respected figure in Gion, she had led the project to renovate the 200-year-old Kaburenjo Theater and raised seven billion yen for this project.

It is clear that as long as Gion and Kyoto have okasans like Ota Kimi, their geisha traditions will endure. Okasans like her are the witnesses and guardians of the geisha cultural legacy who inspire and mentor the next generations on the path to preserve their heritage.

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The next episode will reveal intriguing details about maiko and their unique festival.