Bún Kèn, Bún Nhâm, Bún Thang

Experience the Vietnamese true soul in bun ken, bun thang, bun nhâm.

Bún Thang

Among the myriad of Vietnamese noodle dishes, bun thang stands out with its time-honored flavor: both elegant and exquisite. This dish has graced Vietnamese tables for centuries, as evidenced by its mention in the first Sino-Vietnamese dictionary of the 16th century. The verse “Thang lươn, thang thịt are the favourite” (Chỉ Nam Ngọc Âm giải nghĩa, Tran Xuan Ngoc Lan transcription, Khoa hoc Xa hoi Publishing House 1985, p. 116) highlights its long-standing popularity and cultural significance.

Traditionally, bun thang is savored during the burning of votive offerings on the final day of the Tết holiday. This light and refreshing dish provides a soothing contrast to the rich and indulgent fare of Tet holidays, leaving diners with a sense of calm and relaxation. However, crafting bun thang is no simple feat. It demands a plethora of ingredients, each meticulously prepared with precision and care. This intricate preparation mirrors the methodical process of blending medicinal herbs in “thang thuốc” (Chinese herbal medicine bundle), leading many to believe that the name “thang” is derived from this practice.

Hanoi, the ancient capital of Vietnam for many centuries, is the custodian of the traditional flavor of bun thang. The book Ẩm Thực Tu Tri, published in 1930 in Hanoi, dedicated nearly a full page to detailing how to “make thang,” underscoring the esteemed value of bun thang (Vuong Thi Thu Huong, Tan Dan Thu Quan, pp. 49 – 50). 

The broth of bun thang is crafted from chicken broth, enriched with pork bones, dried shrimp heads and shells, and simmered meticulously. The foam is skimmed off to achieve a clear, savory broth. It must emanate the rich aroma of chicken and the lingering taste of dried shrimp while remaining transparent and free of fat to captivate the discerning palates of Hanoi gourmets.

Yet, the broth serves merely as an elegant backdrop for a more impressive picture. From the vibrant green shredded Vietnamese coriander at the bottom, to the delicate layer of smooth white rice noodles, and finally the five-petaled flower blooming on top, the layers of color and flavor come together to create a masterpiece nestled in a lovely slender-waisted bowl.

Of course, the “flower” of bun thang is not a real bloom, but rather a skillful arrangement of five ingredients: shredded ivory-white chicken, pink shrimp floss as fluffy as clouds, bright yellow omelette as thin as silk, ivory-colored Viet ham, and thick yet gentle minced pork. Don’t forget the bright pistil from the salted egg yolk in the center that brings the entire “flower” to life.

In addition, authentic bun thang cannot be complete without two key accompaniments: shrimp paste with giant water bug’s oil and pickled radish. While pickled radish may sound simple, making it in the traditional style, as chef Nguyen Phuong Hai explains, is quite an art. Fresh radish is split into small pieces and dried, then soaked in a mixture of water, sugar, vinegar, and fish sauce. After a day, the radish is squeezed dry, the soaking water is re-boiled, and the radish is soaked again. This process is repeated three times to produce pickled radish that is perfectly suited to accompany bun thang.

Writer Vu Bang remarked in his book Miếng ngon Hà Nội: “A touch of shrimp paste and giant water bug’s oil elevates the dish to an almost unbearable level of deliciousness, especially when we occasionally bite into a piece of well-pickled, tender white radish, which crunches delightfully.” (Van Hoc Publishing House 1994, p. 117)

Alongside Hanoi’s bun thang, bun thang luon in Pho Hien (Nam Dinh province) is also among the time-honored dishes. According to Ẩm Thực Tu Tri, bun thang luon differs from bun thang by featuring eel instead of chicken. The broth is simmered with eel bones, while the eel meat is sliced and marinated with turmeric, shallot, garlic, pepper, and salt, then stir-fried to perfection. Minced pork, omelette, and shrimp floss are present as in bun thang, but without the Viet ham and salted eggs. The Vietnamese coriander is complemented by shredded basil, adding a spicy aroma that balances the cool taste of the eel (ibid, p. 102).

Pho Hien people have given bun thang luon a modern twist by adding field crabs and peanut worms to the broth. Minced pork and shrimp floss are replaced by julienned Viet ham, and some restaurants even include crispy pork rinds. Instead of being stir-fried, the eel is deep-fried. A plate of fresh herbs, featuring banana flowers, perilla, shiso, and mint, accompanies the dish. Seasonings such as shrimp paste, lemon, and chili add the finishing touch. While bun thang luon may not be presented as meticulously as Hanoi’s bun thang, its flavor is equally passionate and captivating.

Bún Nhâm

Besides bun thang, shrimp floss is almost never served with noodles in Vietnam, except for one special dish: bun nhâm in Chau Doc and Ha Tien in the Southwest. 

According to the locals, “nhâm” means “salad” because it has no broth, is filled with lots of vegetables, and is eaten with sweet and sour fish sauce, much like salads in Vietnam. The word “nhâm” reminds me of “nham” – a Vietnamese-Chinese word meaning “salad” that was popular in the past in Northern Vietnam, as recorded by scholar Huynh Tinh Cua in Dai Nam Quoc Am Tu Vi dictionary (Rey Curiol & Cie. Publishing House 1895, p. 733).

In addition to shrimp floss, bun nhâm boasts another special ingredient rarely seen in Vietnamese noodle dishes: shredded papaya. Specifically, it uses “duck-bill” papaya, which is slightly ripe, with flesh that is light yellow like a duck’s bill, and delightfully crispy and sweet. Fresh veggies are also essential to bun nhâm, featuring a medley of shredded banana flower, ivory-white bean sprouts, light green juicy cucumber, and fresh lettuce and herbs.

A bowl of bun nhâm brimming with strong Southwestern flavor starts with fresh veggies, soft round rice noodles, fragrant shrimp floss, and crispy roasted peanuts. A ladle of thick, creamy coconut milk and a few spoons of sweet and sour fish sauce are added, and once mixed well, the bun nhâm bowl is ready. 

It is a salad but not quite a salad because it carries the floury essence of rice noodles. It is a noodle but not just a noodle because it bursts with the fresh flavors of veggies and crunchy sweet papaya. The shrimp floss discreetly adds protein in a harmonious way. Bun nhâm truly deserves to be celebrated as an elegant noodle dish of the cheerful and sincere Southwesterners.

Bún Kèn

An Giang and Kien Giang provinces also boast a noodle dish enjoyed with shredded papaya: bun ken. The main ingredient of bun ken is fish. An Giang prefers freshwater fish like snakehead, while Kien Giang, being adjacent to the sea, favors sea fish. Bun ken also includes coconut milk, which is not kept separate like in bun nhâm, but cooked together with the fish broth.

After the fish is boiled, its meat is separated and marinated with lemongrass, galangal, turmeric, fish sauce, salt, shallot, and garlic to become aromatic. The fish meat is then stir-fried and poured back into the fish broth. The pot of broth shimmers with vibrant colors of bright red annatto and golden turmeric against the backdrop of rich, creamy coconut milk. The aroma of lemongrass and turmeric is intense. 

Noodles, shredded papaya, fresh herbs, cucumber, and bean sprouts happily bathe in the savory broth. A few roasted peanuts dance in, adding to the fun. Bun ken is delicious in a simple and honest way, a dish so delightful that people in the Southwest could enjoy it forever without ever growing tired of it.

As writer Thach Lam beautifully captured, “Products of the fields, of the mountains and rivers, those dishes are signatures of our people’s enjoyment, both elegant and genuine.” (Hanoi 36 phố phường, Van Hoa Thong Tin Publishing House 2000, p. 171). In this spirit, the elegant bun thang, the authentic bun ken and bun nham – all three noodle dishes have quietly sublimated from the cradle of Vietnamese flavors and tastes. Savor and reflect on the Vietnamese soul hidden within, and let it never fade away.

mlefood – Minh Lê