Cherish Fig Stir-Fry & Jellyfish Salad

Ever indulged in fig stir-fry and jellyfish salad?

Hue’s mixed dishes are distinct from traditional salads, yet they offer equally fresh and enticing flavors. Two iconic Hue specialties are fig stir-fry and blue jellyfish salad.

Fig Stir-Fry

Central Vietnam is home to many Roxburgh fig trees, and in Hue, almost every garden boasts a few. These fig trees are large, with long branches and broad leaves that provide ample shade in the summer. In winter, the trees shed their leaves, leaving only the figs clinging to thin branches or rough trunks, huddled together as if they are seeking warmth.

Hue’s figs are green, round and hairy, about the size of a bowl. The flesh is ivory white, with a bright pink interior when the fruit is young, gradually fading as it matures. Figs have a bitter sap, similar to banana flowers and unripe bananas. Once cut, they must be soaked or boiled in salt water mixed with lemon or vinegar to prevent the flesh from turning black.

While traditional Vietnamese salads often feature fresh vegetables or fruits, along with boiled or grilled meat and seafood, all tossed in a zesty mix of fish sauce, pepper, lemon, garlic, and chili, Hue’s fig stir-fry (vả trộn, or “mixed figs”) takes a different approach. 

In Hue, the figs are first boiled, then peeled, thinly sliced, squeezed dry, and marinated. The marinated meat and shrimp are stir-fried until fragrant, creating a tantalizing aroma that fills the kitchen. Once ready, the figs are added and stir-fried together with meat and shrimp. The chef must continuously mix the ingredients to ensure the figs are evenly cooked and infused with the savory flavors of shrimp and meat. This meticulous process is likely why the locals refer to it as a “mixed” dish.

Young green coriander and Vietnamese coriander garnish the dish, while roasted sesame seeds glisten like tiny pearls scattered across a princess’s gown. The fig stir-fry, gentle yet proud, stands shoulder to shoulder with the majestic and robust knight – roasted rice paper. The figs are tender, with a hint of astringency and a touch of spice. The stir-fried shrimp and meat are bursting with flavor, and the sesame rice paper crackles delightfully with each bite. Most importantly, the aroma of acetes paste (mắm ruốc) is like the mysterious perfume of a princess, captivating and enchanting all who encounter it.

According to Ms. Hoang Thi Kim Cuc, bamboo shoots and young jackfruit can also be transformed into delightful stir-fry dishes, much like figs. After boiling young jackfruit, every part – segments, fibers, and seeds – gets used. (Cooking Hue Dishes 1943, HCMC TH Publishing House 2004, p. 62) I can’t help but wonder if anyone in Hue still whips up these two dishes. My online and YouTube searches came up empty. It seems that while bamboo shoot salad and jackfruit salad are basking in the limelight, their stir-fry counterparts have quietly slipped into obscurity. What a shame!

Blue Jellyfish Salad

Blue jellyfish (nuốc) are unique creatures that grace the brackish lagoons and certain rivers of Hue, Quang Binh, and Quang Tri provinces. Though they resemble typical jellyfish, they possess distinct differences.

While the average jellyfish can exceed a meter in length, blue jellyfish reach a modest maximum of 20 centimeters. Unlike their larger counterparts which can cause itching if not properly prepared, blue jellyfish rarely trigger allergies. Their habitat in brackish water also imparts a lighter sea aroma. 

In the high-salinity waters of Cau Hai lagoon (Hue), these blue jellyfish are renowned for their firm texture and good taste. During summer, they gracefully float on the water’s surface under sunny sky and gentle breezes. However, when the wind picks up, they appear and vanish like phantoms, earning them the nickname “ghosts of the lagoon”.

In early summer, golden sunshine bathes the vast waters of Cau Hai lagoon. Small boats drift leisurely, their nets rhythmically cast out and pulled in. Spoon nets sink into the water, lifting up the blue jellyfish. Once the boats reach the shore, the jellyfish are pre-processed, with the bells and tentacles separated. The bells are soft, juicy, and cool, while the tentacles are crunchy.

In the yard, the acetes paste in the jar ripens, turning a lovely pink-purple color. Combined with garlic, chili, sugar, and lemon juice, it creates a masterpiece you could eat forever without growing bored, providing that you’re a fan of acetes paste. Roll the jellyfish with bitter young bananas, sour star fruit, and herbs, then dip them in the sauce. Amidst the medley of sourness, bitterness, spiciness, saltiness, and sweetness, the light and gentle taste of jellyfish stands out like a pure and peaceful soul.

The three months of blue jellyfish season pass by swiftly. Don’t let it slip away without trying another delightful dish: blue jellyfish salad with oriental melon (nuốc trộn dưa gang). 

While blue jellyfish are blooming in Tam Giang lagoon, oriental melons are also in season. The young melons are long, striped, and lush green. They are as juicy and cool as cucumbers, but with a slightly starchy texture and a sweeter taste. While ripe oriental melons are a favorite fruit, few people know that the young ones can be transformed into savory dishes such as salads, stir-fries, and stews, all of which are incredibly tasty.

Mrs. Truong Dang Thi Bich (1862-1947), the wife of Minister Nguyen Phuc Hong Khang of the Nguyen dynasty, documented the recipe for blue jellyfish salad with oriental melon in her book Thuc Pho Bach Thien (1913) teaching how to prepare 100 Hue’s royal dishes through poems:

“Peel and slice the young melon thin, 

Sprinkle with salt, squeeze, then rinse, 

Fish sauce, shallot, garlic, pepper blend, 

Stir-fry shrimp and meat, then mix jellyfish in.”

The jellyfish tentacles, crispier and chewier than the bells, are perfect for salads. Hue locals love to jazz up the dish with crab claw herb, coriander, sweet basil, and roasted peanuts, creating a delightful symphony of flavors that transforms it into true soul food. 

The shrimp and meat are delightfully satisfying, while the blue jellyfish offers a unique austerity. The oriental melon is refreshingly moist and sweet, the herbs burst with fragrance, and the peanuts provide a rich, crunchy contrast. The transparent jellyfish, nestled beside the smooth melon, are dotted with pinkish shrimp and cool green herbs. Capturing the senses of smell, sight, and taste, blue jellyfish salad is as captivating as a beautiful, intelligent, and sophisticated Hue lady.

Well-balanced, delicious, and clean on the palate, fig stir-fry and blue jellyfish salad are two special Hue dishes that can only be savored for a few months each year. Don’t miss the chance to experience these unique culinary delights, which present the essence of Hue’s rich gastronomic heritage.

mlefood – Minh Lê