Deliciously Cool Sugarcane Juice

Sip the summer away with nature’s sweetest treat: sugarcane juice.

Sugarcane Juice

Sugarcane juice vendors first wheeled their carts through the South of Vietnam around the 1950s. Initially, these carts bore a wooden frame and a rotating wheel, which linked to gleaming stainless steel pressing shafts. Three or four skinless sugarcane stalks, each as long as a human arm, would tentatively enter the press, guided by the steady hand of the vendor cranking the wheel. 

As the juice emerged, a sweet scent of molasses filled the air. Ice cubes, resembling large clear gems, tumbled into glasses, eagerly awaiting the amber nectar to envelop them. In those days, a glass of sugarcane juice held a generous measure of ice to one of juice, yet it remained delectably sweet down to the last drop.

After vanishing post-1975, sugarcane carts made a comeback in the 1990s. The hum of electricity soon overtook the toil of human labor. The press shafts buzzed with life, and sugarcane juice cascaded forth in generous streams. Interspersed among the canes, kumquats, salted lemons, and citrus peels added a tangy twist. This subtle blend of sour and salt tempered sugarcane’s innate sweetness, rendering it more delicate and inviting. The foam floating atop the juice was thicker than in earlier times, just like a glass of frothy beer.

In this era, the sugarcane carts bore the enigmatic image of Miss Sugarcane. With her wavy black hair, rosy cheeks, luminous eyes, and radiant smile, she became an icon, always depicted holding a refreshing glass of sugarcane juice. The origin of these images was shrouded in mystery, whether crafted by a single entity or replicated by many. Despite the myths surrounding her identity, her likeness graced the front of every cart. 

Over time, her image inspired ghostly tales and even a horror film, though these were mere creative liberties. As of 2024, Miss Sugarcane’s presence has waned, her visage giving way to the modern aesthetics of new sugarcane carts.

Traditionally, sugarcane juice and smoothies were distinct offerings, but contemporary tastes have inspired a fusion of the two. This blend has given rise to eight unique flavors of sugarcane juice: pomegranate, strawberry, lemon, peach, apple, kumquat, vanilla, and mint. Each variant boasts a distinct character, standing firm without overshadowing the others. At the end of the day, it’s the customer’s taste that calls the shots.

Over in Cu Chi, they’ve got this sugarcane juice with a durian kick that’s really making waves. Just picture it: a glass full to the brim with sweet sugarcane juice, a scoop of that funky durian thrown in, some cozy steamed mung beans, and a sprinkle of coconut on top. It’s a flavor explosion!

My Tho’s got this tropical treat that’s like a vacation in a cup: coconut milk smooth as silk, jackfruit that’s pure sunshine, wobbly coconut jelly, and peanuts for that perfect snap. It’s a swirl of sugarcane sunshine dancing with coconut milk clouds, all jazzed up with jackfruit bling and a peanut beat. Toss in some ice cubes for that cool rush, and you’ve got yourself a chill breeze that laughs in the face of the sizzling heat.

Sugarcane: Scented, Steamed and Grilled

Traditional Vietnamese method of enjoying sugarcane involved peeling the bark with one’s teeth and then chewing the fibrous stalk. This practice was common among those born in the 1980s or earlier. The sugarcane of yesteryears, untainted by pesticides, was renowned for its natural sweetness and health benefits. 

As noted in Dai Nam Quoc Am Tu vi dictionary by Huynh Tinh Cua, varieties such as mưng, rattan, and elephant sugarcane were likely favored for raw consumption due to their large, tender stalks brimming with juice. Conversely, the lau sugarcane characterized as “small but hard” was typically cultivated for sugar production, as described in the 1895 publication by Rey Curiol & Cie.

For raw indulgence, the Kim Tan sugarcane from Thanh Hoa stands unparalleled. As tall as a person, its stalks are enrobed in purple skin, lightly dusted with white powder. The flesh, a crisp light red, is sweet and juicy beyond compare. 

During the Nguyen Dynasty, this sugarcane was a treasured delicacy sent to the royal courts in Hue. On its journey, the molasses would ferment, emitting a scent similar to that of fermented sticky rice, which led to its nickname in Hue “fermented sticky rice sugarcane”. Kim Tan still cultivates this delightful sugarcane, which I believe Huynh Tinh Cua might have described as “mía sơn dịu: sugarcane with tender, pinkish-red flesh and sweet flavor” (p. 646)

Summer in Hanoi gets a sweet twist with sugarcane soaking up the zesty vibes of grapefruit blossoms. Grab the best cane you can find, peel off its jacket, and slice it into snackable chunks. Let it chill out under a cozy cover of grapefruit petals, and you’ve got yourself a snack that’s as cool as it is zingy.

When winter rolls around, the city cozies up with sugarcane that’s been given a warm hug in a clay pot, all snuggled up with those same sweet-smelling flowers. They simmer together, making the air hum with a gentle, welcoming scent. Once the embers die down, the sugarcane lingers, continuing its dance with the petals. Nibble on this steamed delight and you’ll find it’s softly sweet, with little hints of grapefruit playing peekaboo in the sugarcane’s nooks and crannies.

In the brisk season, the North Central countryside boasts a heartwarming treat: grilled sugarcane. “Sugarcanes clad in their skins hit the glowing coals, and they can’t keep still. They roll, they twist, they turn. They sizzle and start to sing a peculiar tune, a melody that bewitches those gathered round.” (Bang Son, “Grilled Sugarcane”) The air fills with a smoky whisper, tinged with the sweetness of caramel and ripe fruit. And the taste? It’s a sweet serenade with a playful hint of caramel’s bite, warming you to your core.

Saigon, ever vibrant, offered two delightful sugarcane treats: iced and split. The iced variety rested within glass cabinets, basking in the chill of massive ice cubes. Meanwhile, split sugarcane was a visual feast, like a bamboo stick in bloom, its juicy segments unfurling like petals. Iced and split sugarcanes were a nostalgic memory to Saigon’s streetsight of the 1950s and 1960s. 

In the bustling district of Chợ Lớn, the Chinese vendors crafts another specialty: sugarcane steamed with the aromatic pandan leaves. As dusk falls, the simple act of holding a warm, fragrant bundle of steamed sugarcane and savoring each bite becomes an indelible part of the city’s charm.

Sugarcane: Past and Present

Sugarcane has a history as ancient as rice. It is likely that the Vietnamese have been acquainted with sugarcane for at least 2000 years, dating back to the era of the Trung Sisters. This is evidenced by the fact that the Trung Sisters frequently rode elephants which are known to have a preference for sugarcane. 

The early 14th-century document, An Nam Chi Luoc, recounts tales of using sugarcane to feed elephants in An Nam. It states: “An Nam, a country that often presented elephants as tributes… To capture elephants, hunters would entice female elephants into the forest and then use sugarcane to lure the males.” (Le Tac, Lao Dong Publishing House, 2009, p. 266).

By the 18th century, North Central Vietnam was a hub for sugarcane cultivation. Scholar Le Quy Don observed: “From Son Tay to the East Sea, south of Thanh Hoa, vast sandy fields sprawled across several hundred thousand hectares, abundant with mulberry, sugarcane, and rice.” (Van Dai Loai Ngu, Van hoa Thong Tin Publishing House, 2006, p. 150)

In the 19th century, sugarcane plantations were thriving in the South Central and Southern regions. In Dai Nam Quoc Am Tu Vi, Huynh Tinh Cua cataloged ten distinct sugarcane varieties. He also recorded different Vietnamese terms linked with sugarcane, like “xước mía: peel the skin with your teeth for eating”, “róc mía: split the skin with a knife” and “tiện mía: cut it into small pieces for chewing”. Additionally, he described a game: “sả mía: let a sugarcane stalk stand and slice it down with a knife. Who cuts the longest piece could either savor it or win a wager.” (p. 646)

Sugarcane isn’t just for snacking or sugar-making. In Vietnamese beliefs, it’s like a “ladder” that helps ancestors come down from heaven to earth for Tet. When they come back to their heavenly home, sugarcane turns into a “walking stick” or a “pole” for carrying gifts. That’s why you’ll see sugarcane next to the family altar on Tet, especially in North Central places like Ha Tinh and Thanh Hoa where there’s lots of it growing.

In the South, the 9th day of the first lunar month is reserved for honoring the Jade Emperor. The offerings include two gleaming sugarcanes, rootless but tipped, shining like gold, because even gods appreciate a grand entrance. 

Vietnamese indigenous sugarcanes were once nature’s sweet gift, though modest in yield and vulnerable to diseases. Nowadays, Vietnam’s sugarcane fields are dominated by robust imported varieties, nourished by fertilizers and pesticides. Yet, with organic rice stars like ST24 and ST25 gaining fame, it might just be the perfect moment for a homegrown organic sugarcane to make a grand entrance and delight our taste buds.

mlefood – Minh Lê