How Kiyomizu-dera made me feel loved

About the love magic at Kiyomizu-dera…

Kiyomizu-dera Temple

Amidst Kyoto’s ancient whispers, Kiyomizu-dera tiptoes into my memory like a tea ceremony in slow motion. Its elegance? Sublime. Its uniqueness? More than certain. 

Picture this: Otowa Mountain, the wise old sage, sits east of Kyoto city. The ascent? Not for the faint-hearted. Stone steps, weathered by centuries of pilgrims, lead you to the temple gate—a portal to serenity. And fear not, weary wanderer; flanking the path are stalls selling sustenance and souvenirs. Plus, you are not lonely: many others share your path, both foreigners and Japanese people.

According to ancient lore, Kiyomizu-dera was established in the 8th century. Master Kenshin, later known as Enshin, was practicing in Nara when a divine dream unfolded—a god whispering of a sacred land. Guided by this celestial compass, Kenshin set forth toward Kyoto. On Mount Otowa, he stumbled upon a majestic pure waterfall. Practicing nearby, the hermit Gyoei bestowed upon him a sacred tree and counseled: “Carve a Kannon statue for worship.” And with that, Gyoei set off. Kenshin resided in the hermit’s cottage, diligently carving the Kannon statue by the waterfall each day. 

Two years later, warrior Tamuramaro ventured into the mountain on a hunt and crossed paths with Kenshin. Stirred by Kenshin’s unwavering spirit, the warrior and his wife assisted Kenshin to build a temple, a sanctuary for Kannon, in the year 778. And thus, Kiyomizu-dera was christened – a name echoing the waterfall’s purity. 

As you read this, perhaps curiosity tugs at your sleeve, urging you to ask: “Have you glimpsed the sacred Kannon statue, that silent sentinel spanning more than twelve centuries?” Alas, my answer is unfortunately “no”. 

The Kannon statue resides within a secluded sanctuary in the heart of the main hall. Its doors remain closed year-round. Only during a fleeting week in August do they yield, granting pilgrims passage to worship the Bodhisattva. Japan welcomed me at spring’s dawn – March, when cherry blossoms blushed and the air hummed with anticipation. Thus, this rarest of opportunities to gaze upon the sacred statue eluded me.

Yet, I could behold a rare wonder: the stage in the main hall, suspended like a secret between earth and sky. Picture it: a wooden structure, clinging to the cliff’s edge, without a single nail holding it together (Luckily, my blissful ignorance shielded me during my visit; otherwise, I might’ve clung to it like a koala during an earthquake).

I stood there for hours, and… nothing happened, so you can visit the temple with peace in mind. But don’t follow the Japanese proverb “to jump off the stage of Kiyomizu-dera”! It only means a high-five to bold decisions, a salute to courage. So my friends, stay grounded, admire the view, and leave the acrobatics to the temple sparrows. 

The stage, reborn during a grand restoration in 1633, is a cypress floor of about 300 square meters. Supported by mighty wooden columns, it clings to the cliff’s edge, a ballet dancer pirouetting on the precipice. From this vantage point, you gaze upon a vast landscape—a tapestry of trees, with ancient Kyoto nestled in the distance. Floating clouds of pink cherry blossoms paint the canvas during spring and summer whispers in endless green leaves. But autumn? Ah, Otowa Mountain dons its finest attire—bright red, yellow, and orange hues—before surrendering to winter’s pure white embrace.

The temple dedicated to Hermit Gyoei nestled halfway up the mountain. Before the temple stands Otowa no taki – the sacred water fountain. Water cascading from the waterfall channels into three streams, each with different power. The left one can heal your body and mind, the middle one can make you fall in love or stay in love, and the right one can bring you success. Sounds amazing, right?

But there’s a catch. You should drink from only one stream. The Buddhas frown upon greed, so if you drink from two streams, the magic is halved; and guess what happens if you drink from all? You get nothing at all! 

If you still feel uncertain about love after sipping the sacred water, don’t give up hope. There’s another place you can try: Jishu Shrine, the home of Okuninushi no Mikoto, the Japanese God of Love. He’s been around longer than Kiyomizu-dera, so he knows a thing or two about romance. But he’s not easy to please. 

You’ll have to prove yourself worthy of his blessing by taking a blind walk of faith. In the temple grounds, you’ll see two rocks about 18 meters apart. You have to walk from one to the other with your eyes closed, without bumping into anything or anyone. If you make it to the second rock, you’ll get true love. The God of Love must be having a laugh; he’s taking the phrase “love is blind” to a whole new level.

Besides the breathtaking view, Kiyomizu-dera also boasts an extraordinary Abbot with a remarkable life. Master Ryokei Onishi was a man of compassion and wisdom, who dedicated himself to creating a “Buddhism that society needs”. He established nursing homes for the elderly and children, and contributed to help victims of natural disasters. He passed away at the age of 109, and was called a ‘living Buddha’ by his admirers. Perhaps it is thanks to his virtue that the spiritual power of Kiyomizu-dera has inspired the hearts of Japanese people.

Road to the Temple: Hidden Gems Along the Way

After climbing up the mountain, let’s have a break. Why not stop by the Starbucks coffee shop on Ninenzaka, the street leading to the temple? It’s not your ordinary Starbucks. It’s located in a traditional Japanese house with tatami mats and a zen garden. You can enjoy a delicious white chocolate coffee while sitting on a cushion and admiring the view. It’s a rare experience for a tourist, isn’t it? How often do you get to drink coffee in a place that looks like it came out of a samurai movie?

You might not notice the Starbucks sign at first, because it blends in with the yellow wall of the old house. That’s a smart move by Starbucks, because it respects the ancient atmosphere of the street and also… keeps the crowds away. This place is so popular that it often runs out of seats. But don’t worry, if you can’t find a spot to sit, you can still enjoy your coffee while admiring the small zen garden in the back. You may be amazed by how the Japanese preserve their culture and identity amid Western influences. 

After getting your caffeine fix, let’s head to the Kiyomizu museum on Sannenzaka street. It may look like a humble house, but inside you’ll find a treasure trove of 19th-century Japanese handicrafts. These are masterpieces of metalwork, cloisonné, maki-e lacquerware and Kyoto Satsuma ware. Even if you’re not an expert, you’ll be impressed by the beauty and craftsmanship of these objects. Every detail is exquisite and flawless. The images on them are so lifelike that you feel like they might come alive any second. 

You have a good appetite, don’t you? So do I. Luckily, there is a cozy lunch spot called Otowa Saryo just a stone’s throw away from the temple gate. The place is tucked away in a peaceful lane, with a spacious porch and large glass doors that let in plenty of light. This time I won’t make you suffer on the tatami mats, because there will be comfy tables and chairs with cushions and armrests. They are a hit among the locals and tourists, so make sure to reserve a table beforehand to skip the queue. 

The restaurant’s menu is simple, but it offers authentic Kyoto cuisine. If you have a big appetite, go for the Otowa bento, which comes with starters, sashimi, tempura, grilled seafood, rice and white miso soup. Everything is presented in elegant ceramic dishes and bowls that reflect the Kyoto style. The serving size may look modest, but if you savor every bite and appreciate their tastes, you will feel both full and content after your meal.

Or if you are a duo and not starving, you can share one soba noodle with tempura and nine side dishes. Each side dish adds a different twist to the soba noodles, so you can enjoy “ten flavors” of noodles. There are more surprises, but I would not spoil the fun of discovering them by yourself. 

Relaxing on the porch of the restaurant, I basked in the warm sunlight and crisp breeze of an early spring day in Kyoto. I felt a serene calmness in my soul. The kindness of Kannon and the wisdom of the abbot have spread a gentle love around here that you can sense when you quiet your mind. I didn’t pray for anything at Kiyomizu-dera, but deep down, maybe I had wished to be loved.

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