Kaiseki: A Life-changing Experience

An unforgettable journey through the world of kaiseki.

In our previous episodes, we delved deep into the world of kaiseki, exploring its rich theoretical foundations. Now, it’s time to transition from theory to practice and truly experience the magic of kaiseki cuisine.

Kaiseki Menu 

A traditional kaiseki meal is a culinary symphony, typically featuring nine exquisite dishes that offer a harmonious balance of taste, texture, and presentation. The journey begins with appetizers (sakizuke), followed by fresh, delicate cuts of raw seafood (tsukuri/sashimi). A soothing clear soup (suimono) calms the senses, while flavorful grilled dishes (yakimono) add a smoky dimension. Soft steamed dishes (mushimono) melt in your mouth, and rich stewed dishes (nimono) burst with flavor. 

Thoughtfully prepared dressed dishes (aemono) complete the main courses. Essential staples like rice with soup and pickles (shokuji) provide a satisfying finish, along with a sweet dessert (mizumono) and green tea. The number of dishes can vary from six to fifteen, depending on the creativity and traditions of the restaurant and chef, making each kaiseki experience uniquely memorable.

In a kaiseki meal, certain dishes have specific positions: appetizers are always served first, dessert is the final course, and rice is served just before dessert. The sequence of the other dishes can vary, but it’s crucial to maintain harmony between them. For instance, a neutral-tasting dish like clear soup or a steamed dish should follow the raw seafood, rather than a strong-flavored dish like grilled or dressed items. While enjoying your meal, you can savor sake, but be mindful not to overindulge and spoil your appetite.

The three essential principles of kaiseki cuisine are to avoid strong-flavored spices and herbs, prevent greasiness, and serve dishes at the appropriate temperature. These guidelines ensure that the natural flavors and freshness of the ingredients are preserved and respected, allowing diners to savor the absolute freshness, exquisite aroma, subtle taste, and delicate texture of each dish.

My Unforgettable Kaiseki Journey

They say the best way to find good food is to ask a local. That’s exactly what I did when I checked in at Toyoko Inn. The receptionist smiled and nodded when I asked for a recommendation. She told me about a spot where she and her friends often enjoyed delicious and affordable meals. The only catch? They didn’t speak English.

She kindly made a reservation for us and provided detailed directions. The only thing I forgot to do was write down the restaurant’s name; so now I have no idea what it was called. Well, at least it taught me the valuable lesson of ichigo ichie: each opportunity only comes once, so cherish it.

We arrived around six in the evening to find the place nearly deserted, as most Japanese people dined later. We chose a high table and were guided to a booth with privacy screens on either side. It was exactly as the receptionist had described: a cozy spot perfect for friends to hang out, enjoy some delicious food, and chat away. It wasn’t anything too fancy, but it had just the right ambiance to make us feel at home.

The first appetizer was a trio of tantalizing treats: crispy fried anchovies, sweet and sour pickled baby squid, and spinach in sesame sauce. I began with a sip of warm sake, filling my senses with a fragrant warmth. Biting into the fried anchovy, it crunched delightfully in my mouth, releasing a sweet burst of mirin and caramel. The baby squid, tender and soft, was coated in a tangy, sweet sauce. The spinach leaf, smooth and succulent, was perfectly enhanced by the nutty richness of sesame sauce. This light appetizer not only tantalized our taste buds but also ignited our curiosity and anticipation for the forthcoming dishes.

The second course featured sashimi – delicate slices of raw fish. The fan-shaped plate showcased wine-red tuna and frosty white snapper, beautifully garnished with shredded daikon, shiso leaves, and a tiny tower of wasabi. The fresh tuna gently melted in my mouth, while the snapper tasted dreamy, enhanced by the authentic soy sauce and spicy wasabi. Although this wasn’t my first time eating sashimi, I had never experienced the fish’s freshness so vividly. Perhaps it was due to the exceptional quality of the fish, or maybe it was because I was truly focusing on savoring each bite.

The clear soup arrived in a charming ceramic pot, nestled atop a cute stove. Inside, tender and juicy seasonal vegetables lay beneath a layer of silky, bright yellow eggs. I ladled some soup into my bowl and took a sip. The warm broth filled my mouth with the sweetness of vegetables, the richness of eggs, and the umami of fish. The soup was like a delightful rainbow, transporting you from an island brimming with the wild ocean flavors of raw fish to the fragrant shore of grilled seafood.

The grilled fish, with its golden scales glistening, rested on a bed of green bamboo leaves, as if freshly returned from the fields. A white lotus stem crowned with a ruby-red dot added a touch of elegance, while crispy fried seaweed brought a delightful crunch. The surprise ingredient? Raisins. The sweet raisins contrasted beautifully with the salty, fatty fish, while the seaweed added a hint of savoriness to balance the dish. The chef’s genius lay in daring to blend opposites, creating a harmonious symphony out of chaos.

Breaded and fried shrimp heads were a revelation to me. Stripped of their tough shells, they left only the tender lower halves, creamy roes, and delicate legs that quivered in the air. The batter was so light it melted in your mouth. I dipped a shrimp head in the lemongrass-infused salt and savored the crunch. The roes burst with a buttery flavor, while the legs tickled my tongue. It was a unique and uplifting flavor – a moment of bliss that was gone too soon.

The shrimp body was wrapped in seaweed and coated in a crispy golden batter. The dipping sauce – a blend of soy sauce, mirin, and dashi stock – paired perfectly with it. Grated daikon radish, white as cotton, added a light spicy kick. Small fish, lotus root, and sweet potato were also fried in batter, each offering its own unique flavor, transforming what could have been a monotonous dish into one that was lively and rich.

Rice cake soup is a simple yet satisfying dish. It features mochi (Japanese rice cake), a tender piece of fish, and creamy white beans, all topped with blue seaweed and grated white radish. The broth is slightly salty, perfectly balancing the blandness of the mochi and other ingredients. A hint of lemon peel adds a touch of freshness and color, making the dish both visually appealing and delicious.

Then, the dressed dish was presented to us like a gift of summer: a flower with a heart of sweet and sour pickled greens nestled in a clear glass dish, adorned with petals of delicate pale pink octopus slices. The cool, chewy octopus paired perfectly with the slightly crunchy pickled greens. Fresh and invigorating, the salad refreshed our palates, preparing us for the next kaiseki experience.

The sushi arrived as promised, though it was a bit surprising to find no soy sauce or wasabi. The waiter seemed to understand our surprised looks and shook his head, trying to explain in broken English that they were unnecessary. Later, I learned that high-end sushi is seasoned during preparation with a little salt by the chef to taste, eliminating the need for any additional dipping. Indeed, the rice, fish, eggs, and eel resonated wonderfully together.

After the sushi, warm miso soup was served. We held the bowls in our hands, savoring the warmth and the lingering steam carrying the rustic taste of seaweed and tofu. The light taste of tuna combined with the comforting miso paste created a unique, distinctly Japanese flavor that was both charming and unforgettable.

For dessert, we had ice cream, served in a golden lemon on a plate of green leaves, accompanied by an elegant golden spoon. The ice cream was cool and refreshing, with a sweet and sour lemon flavor that felt like a hand waving goodbye to summer. 

A cup of steaming green tea concluded our kaiseki experience. We didn’t talk much as we were focused on savoring the food, but we clearly felt the harmony and the shared joy. Perhaps this is the true essence of kaiseki which means “sitting together”?

Kaiseki taught me that good food doesn’t need to be elaborate. The chef pours his heart into every dish, and in return, the diner should eat with all his heart, savoring each detail and appreciating every moment. By eating mindfully, we uncover flavors we might otherwise overlook. When we eat with gratitude, the food nourishes us from body to soul. The kaiseki experience has imparted to me a simple yet profound lesson. An unforgettable experience! 

mlefood – Minh Lê