Lovely Fluffy Bánh Bò

Discover bánh bò, Vietnam’s beloved fluffy delight.

Fermented Rice – Yeast

While many Vietnamese cakes’ names lack an explanation, bánh bò is an exception, boasting three distinct origins documented in historical texts. 

In 1760, Hai Thuong Lan Ong’s Nu Cong Thang Lam described bánh bò as “cow’s lung cake”, a name that reflects the cake’s hollow and porous interior, much like a cow’s lungs (Phu Nu Publishing House, 1971, p. 47). His description establishes ‘bò’ as the “cow” meaning in Vietnamese.

Huynh Tinh Cua presented an alternative interpretation, likening the cake’s form to a “cow’s udder” (Dai Nam Quoc Am Tu vi, Rey Curie & Cie Publishing House, 1895, p. 61). This resemblance is particularly evident in the Southern version of bánh bò, which is poured into a small tall bowl with a flared top, mirroring a cow’s udder.

Furthermore, Northern Vietnamese scholars from Khai Tri Tin Duc Association suggested that the cake’s name originates from the way “the dough rises to the edge of the bowl upon steaming”. In this case, ”bò” carries the meaning of “to rise” in Vietnamese (Vietnamese Dictionary, Trung Bac Tan Van Publishing House, 1931, p. 51).

While every scholar serves up their own piece of bánh bò, we practical pastry enthusiasts are more eager to sink our teeth into the secrets behind the cake’s irresistible sponginess and “risen” charm. There are two classic methods and one modern twist that whip up this treat just right.

The first traditional approach utilizes nước cốt rượu nếp (sticky rice wine essence) or cơm rượu (fermented sticky rice) as a natural leavening agent. The rice flour dough is left to ferment overnight, a crucial period during which the yeast from the wine generates air bubbles, endowing the dough with its future sponginess. 

Although this method demands patience, it yields a cake that is not only translucent but also tender and aromatic. Ms. Hoang Thi Kim Cuc affectionately terms this variety “translucent bánh bò” in her book Cooking Hue Dishes (Tong Hop Ho Chi Minh City Publishing House, p. 53).

Embarking on the second method is like taking a leisurely stroll through rice paddies. Over the span of three days, the rice is pampered with soaks and rinses, transforming it into a soft snowy canvas. Once ground and dried, it’s ready for its grand transformation. In the alchemy of dough-making, “egg whites are whisked into a frenzy, reaching lofty heights of frothiness that would make any soap bubble envious” (Hoang Thi Kim Cuc, op. cit., p. 116). Cakes born from this process puff up proudly, far beyond their translucent cousins, and are lovingly dubbed “fluffy bánh bò”.

In the bustling dance of today’s kitchens, the modern method is a swift waltz that saves time without skimping on delight. A dash of baking powder and a whisper of yeast work their magic to gift the cake its springy bounce, while tapioca flour lends a playful chew. 

The result? A “spongy bánh bò” that rises to the occasion, quick to charm your taste buds. And while it may shy away from the full bouquet of traditional scents, it more than makes up for it with a kaleidoscope of flavors that dance across the palate.

Bánh bò, a modest yet cherished treat, dances through Vietnam’s culinary landscape with grace. In the South, it proudly accompanies bánh ít (black sticky cake) on the altars. Southern folks often relish it with bánh tiêu (hollow donuts), where the donut’s crispness plays off bánh bò’s tenderness to form a perfect couple. Then comes the pairing with roasted pork. The pork’s crispy skin, rich fat, and hearty taste blend with the cake, enchanting those who love a touch of sweet with their savories.

Bánh Bò’s Diversity

In the bustling Southwest markets, bánh bò bông is a delight not to be missed. These dainty cakes are a kaleidoscope of colorful blooms nestled on a tray that shimmers like morning dew. Perfect for a single bite, they burst with pandan fragrance and sweet coconut milk taste. Before you know it, a bag full of cakes is gone, swept up in the giggles and scuffles of kids who can’t wait to get a taste of this treat.

In the lush landscape of An Giang, fan palm trees reach skyward. The locals collect their ripe fruits, peel and grind the pulp to release a juice as bright as the morning sun. This golden nectar is the heart of bánh bò thốt nốt – a famed delicacy of An Giang. Each cake rests in a cradle of green banana leaves, crowned with a sprinkle of snowy coconut flakes. Sweet and tender, it embodies the warmth of sunshine and the subtle notes of ripe fruit.

The Chaozhou people who immigrated to South Vietnam in the 17th century brought with them baak tong gou (Cantonese: white sugar cake) made from rice flour, sugar and yeast. Over time, coconut milk and tapioca starch were added to make rich and spongy bánh bò sữa. Embrace the taste and you’re a goner – hooked for life. Just a heads up though, it might give you a tickle in the throat on the first try.

On the lively streets of Can Tho pedals a man who’s not just a vendor but a local legend. For over thirty years, Truong Phung Chieu has been the face behind the beloved bánh bò sữa. Bearing an uncanny resemblance to the actor playing Trien Chieu (Zhan Zhao) in the Taiwanese 1993 series “Justice Pao”, he’s affectionately nicknamed “bánh bò Trien Chieu” for his cakes.

Although his cakes sell out within just half an hour, he prepares only two batches each day. With a twinkle in his eye, he quips: “Good cake takes time. Can’t rush!’ Mr. Chieu truly lives up to the noble moniker of the Royal Guard Trien Chieu.

Steamed bánh bò is delightful, but grilled ones are truly exceptional. Mix rice flour with water and ferment it overnight with yeast or fermented sticky rice. Then, gently ladle the mixture into an oiled cast iron pot. A playful dance of red-hot coals heats the pot from both below and above. 

Mastering the art of grilling bánh bò is a delicate balance: too little fire and the cake won’t rise; too much and it risks burning. Yet, the effort is worthwhile. The end result is a golden majestic cake. After receiving kisses from the flames, it becomes a cheerful and sweet delight like a heart warmed by love.

In the modern remix of bánh bò, eggs and flour crash the party, and then it’s pan-grilled to crispy perfection. This hip version flaunts a brown crust so crispy, it gives French crepes a run for their money, and a green pandan heart that yells “Go Green!”. Smash two of these culinary rebels together with a coconut filling, and bam: you’ve got grilled coconut bánh bò. It’s the latest craze sweeping Vietnamese youth off their feet.

A Cultural Take on Bánh Bò

Bánh bò has long been a cherished tradition among Southern Vietnamese, from bygone days to the present. 

A hopeful young girl placed a plate of bánh bò bông on the matchmaker’s altar, wishing to encounter the man of her dreams:

“A plate of bánh bò bông to the matchmakers with care,

A wish for a match, true and rare.” (Folk song)

After meeting the man of her dreams, she became his devoted “bánh bò supplier” during their secret meetings. “With bánh bò in hand, I tiptoed with glee, past mom and dad, as quiet as can be. Through the night, to you, the studious champ, I brought the cakes, our secret study lamp.” This scene, described in “The Song of Bánh Bò”, captures the essence of youthful wit and charm. Just picture it: a young girl tiptoeing through the yard, her gentle knock barely audible. Then, the oil lamp’s glow cuts through the night, revealing the student’s grateful smile.

Sadly, not every love story has a happy ending. There were times when, after a long wait, the girl had to follow her parents’ wishes and marry someone else. This left him alone, gazing at the street lights each night:

“No lamp stands as high as Mr. Chanh’s own,

No cake as white as bánh bò bông.

From youth to now, my love was sown,

Yet grown you’ve left, and I’m alone.”   (Folk song)

The children, oblivious to the adults’ woes, delighted in the tongue-twisting tale: “Bà Ba bán bánh bò bông, bẻ bông bụp bị bắt bỏ bót ba bốn bữa”. (Mrs. Ba, the bánh bò bông seller, plucked hibiscus blooms, only to find herself briefly behind bars for three or four days).

Bánh bò is a sort of folk love. From the hopeful offerings of young love to the playful rhymes on children’s lips, it carries the sweetness of life and memories. It is a delicious reminder of youth and the simple pleasures that bind us together. Would you like a bánh bò?

mlefood – Minh Lê