Magical Sticky Rice with Fish

Have you ever experienced the magic of sticky rice with fish?

In Vietnam, it’s common for locals to enjoy rice with fish and sticky rice with meat. Fish is a staple in both lunch and dinner menus, though it’s seldom featured in breakfast dishes. However, there are three notable places in Vietnam where sticky rice with fish is a beloved breakfast option, receiving enthusiastic support from the community.

Nam Dinh: Sticky Rice with Perch

Nam Định, a province nestled in the Red River Delta of northern Vietnam, is a place of rich cultural heritage and culinary tradition. Known for its intricate network of rivers, it’s a region where the bounty of freshwater fish meets the cultivation of premium sticky rice. This geographical harmony is the foundation of Nam Dinh’s famed breakfast dish: sticky rice with perch.

To begin with, the perch embarks on a culinary journey, starting with a leisurely spa bath in water that’s been kissed with a pinch of salt, caressed by a whisper of ginger, and serenaded by a chorus of green scallions. It’s the first step in transforming this bony swimmer into a symphony of flavors.

Our skilled chefs play the flame like a maestro, ensuring the water just hums along to a gentle simmer, all while skimming off the foam with the finesse of a barista crafting the perfect latte. And don’t you dare toss that liquid gold away – it’s got a secret role to play, which you’ll discover as the plot thickens.

Transforming perch into a breakfast delicacy is a bit like performing a magic trick. First, the dorsal fins are whisked away with the flourish of a magician’s wand, and the fish is split with the precision of a card trick. The hard backbone, along with those pesky, needle-thin bones, vanish as if by sleight of hand. What remains is the soft, white canvas of fish meat, now ready to be spiced and fried into golden perfection. 

In days of yore, the fish was fried whole, but modern culinary alchemy has transformed it into fine shreds, as fluffy as clouds and just as heavenly, ensuring each bite is easy to savor and the magic lingers longer.

Imagine the steamer hissing away, as the hot sticky rice inside begins its aromatic dance. The scent of freshly cooked sticky rice fills the air, promising a feast for the senses. Gently scoop the sticky rice into a bowl, and watch as the fish playfully joins the party. A sprinkle of fragrant fried onions and a crunch of crispy pork fat add to the symphony of textures. And for the adventurous souls, a dollop of pure fish sauce with a kick of spicy pepper awaits to tantalize the taste buds. 

But wait, something’s amiss… Ah, the crowning glory! The indispensable companion to sticky rice with perch: a bowl of ginger and green mustard soup!

It’s showtime for the fish broth, as previously hinted. As it reaches a rolling boil, the green mustards make their grand entrance, diving in without a hint of trepidation. Then they transform with flair, from a lush green to an even more striking shade. Delicate ginger threads descend gracefully, infusing the broth with their spicy essence. A final touch of seasoning, and there you have it! The ginger mustard soup is ready to join forces with the sticky rice, rounding out this delightful breakfast act.

Sticky rice with perch is a year-round delight, yet it reaches the pinnacle of its flavor during the chilly months. Its humble stall is tucked away in a quaint, moss-covered nook of Nam Dinh’s old town. 

The sticky rice exudes an inviting aroma, while the fish offers a satisfying chewiness paired with its rich taste. Fried onions and pork fat add a delightful crunch and a hint of indulgence. Embrace a spoonful of the warm soup; the subtle bitterness of mustard and the zing of ginger envelop your palate, radiating warmth from within. With each bite, you’re energized, primed for the day’s endeavors.

Nha Trang: Sticky Rice with Anchovy

Before it captured the hearts of foodies online, sticky rice with anchovy was a hidden gem, nestled in the unassuming nooks of small streets, tranquil neighborhoods, and the bustling edges of markets. It was an elusive treat for many Nha Trang locals, who, without a stroke of luck, might never have savored its flavors. 

Today, the digital world buzzes with tales of its storied stalls in Nha Trang. There’s Ms. Hoa at De-po (old train station), serving her dish right through her window, the corner shop at the crossroads of Tran Quy Cap and Le Thanh Phuong, and the stall run by a bespectacled, wise lady at Xom Bong Market.

Cradled by Hon Tre, the waters of Nha Trang Bay provide a welcoming haven, inviting schools of anchovies to gather each year in its gentle warmth. This natural phenomenon gifts local fishermen with a generous catch, enriching their nets and tables alike. Anchovies, prized for their affordability and nutrition, have woven themselves into Nha Trang’s culinary culture, a taste of home that lingers on the palate, long after one has journeyed afar.

Nha Trang’s anchovies present a delightful array, from the tiniest, slender as toothpicks, ideal for enriching soups, to the larger ones that achieve a golden crisp when fried. Yet, the true star in the realm of braising is the spined anchovy. 

Imagine these little swimmers, just the size of an adult’s finger, gently cooking over a bed of charcoal. They’re lovingly coated in a rich concoction of oil, fish sauce, sugar, shallots, garlic, chili, and a hint of caramel. It may look straightforward, but mastering this braise is an art. It’s all about striking the right chord between the salty, sweet, and spicy, while ensuring the fish retains a texture that’s both tender and firm.

The sticky rice is subtly kissed by the scent of pandan leaves, setting a fragrant stage for what’s to come. The braised anchovies shine, their hues reminiscent of golden amber, offering a flavor that’s expertly woven from threads of salty, sweet, and just the right touch of spice. 

A cascade of scallion oil and a scattering of crispy fried shallots bring back the nostalgia of beloved sticky corn, cherished in memories. Each bite offers a retreat to the simple joys, a flavor of the countryside that dances to the city’s beat.

Before you know it, the plate’s been cleared, a silent ode to the dish’s captivating allure. Truly, it’s a feast that satisfies, delights, and comes with the sweet bonus of being easy on the wallet.

Kon Tum: Sticky Rice with Fish and Măng Le

Nestled in the Central Highlands, Kon Tum is a treasure trove of forests and mountains, a sanctuary for bamboo and its lesser-known cousin, nứa (Schizostachyum aciculare). 

While nứa shares kinship with bamboo, its stature is more modest, with small and short stems that limit its economic value. Yet, what it lacks in size, it more than makes up for in taste. Its shoots, a soft light green, shyly peek from the earth, slender and charming, inspire the Vietnamese idiom “bamboo shoot fingers.”

In Vietnam, bamboo shoots are typically referred to simply as “fresh” or “dried,” without mention of their parent species. However, the shoots of nứa are so distinct and delightful that they’ve earned their own moniker “măng le”. These tender shoots, sweet and devoid of bitterness, are a culinary gem of Kon Tum, cherished through the ages and still adored today.

Binh Dinh’s people once shared a fond exchange with their mountain friends in Kon Tum: 

“Returnees, to the mountain’s friends our words extend, 

Offer us măng le, and flying cods we’ll gladly send.”     (Folk song) 

Nowadays, the exchange has evolved. Binh Dinh not only offers flying cods but also fresh mackerel. When combined with Kon Tum’s măng le and aromatic sticky rice, they create an unparalleled dish: sticky rice with fish and măng le.

Sticky rice, bathed in turmeric water, emerges with a lustrous golden hue. The originator’s intent may be shrouded in mystery, but their innovation is undeniable. This golden touch not only bestows the rice with visual allure but also offers a gentle embrace for the stomachs of those unaccustomed to the robust flavors of bamboo shoots and fish.

The petite mackerels shimmer, adorned with a sheen of oil and speckled with fiery red chilies. The flesh is succulent, the bones so tender they yield to the gentlest pressure. A symphony of scents – the briny whisper of the sea, the pungent notes of shallot and garlic, the sharpness of pepper, and the warmth of chili – melds into an aroma that beckons the senses. 

Beside this, the stir-fried bamboo shoots, golden and glistening, nestle timidly, their sweetness a quiet contrast. They bring the essence of the forest to the plate, marrying flavors of the ocean and the earth in a harmonious “mountain and sea delicacy”. Encased in the verdant embrace of banana leaves, each bundle is a warm, hand-sized treasure, waiting to be unwrapped.

Who says you need a Michelin star to make unforgettable food? The real magic happens in the kitchens of everyday folks. These unsung culinary wizards whip up wonders that can go toe-to-toe with the fanciest chefs out there. Take Vietnamese cuisine – it’s a treasure trove of flavors, all thanks to generations of homegrown talent. And dishes like sticky rice with fish? They’re the proof in the pudding, showing off the rich culinary heritage that’s as down-to-earth as it is mind-blowingly good.

mlefood – Minh Lê