P2 Maiko and Miyako Odori

Gion (Kyoto) glows with the sparkle of maikos and the splendor of Miyako Odori.

Teenagers in Japan must complete junior high school before they can learn a profession. That’s why most maiko start their apprenticeship at an okiya when they are 15 years old. To become a maiko, a young woman needs the consent of an okasan, the owner of an okiya. She then moves into the okiya and begins her training for the profession. Her okasan covers her expenses and she will repay them gradually after she becomes a full-fledged geiko.

From Rough to Radiant

The apprentice will attend the school dedicated to maiko and geiko. She learns to sing, dance, and play instruments in the traditional style as well as how to wear a kimono, apply makeup and style her hair. She is taught to make tea, arrange flowers, write calligraphy and act towards customers and members of the hanamachi. In this community, gratitude to others is the core of good behavior.

I lifted my hand for a question. “I notice that the Japanese have a strong sense of responsibility. Does that come from being raised in gratitude from a young age?” Emi’s answer was honest: “I’m not a psychologist so I can’t answer. But I agree with you that gratitude makes people feel more accountable for themselves and the society.”

Returning to our lovely maiko. In the first one to two years, she is called a shikomi, a humble apprentice in the okiya. She manages to balance her schoolwork, chores, and practice, while also assisting the maikos and geikos with their needs. She has worked really hard with high determination and effort, and has made great progress in her training. 

After years of hard work and dedication, her teachers finally tell her okasan that she is ready to advance. An experienced geiko is chosen to be her oneesan (‘older sister” in Japanese), who will guide and support her in the geisha world. In a formal ceremony, she exchanges vows with her oneesan and receives her stage name, a name that reflects her personality and style. From that moment on, she is known only by that name until her retirement. 

She is now a minarai, a novice who learns by observing and assisting her oneesan at tea parties. She strives to impress her guests and seniors with her skills and manners. Soon after, when she demonstrates her competence and grace, she is honored with a ceremony and officially becomes maiko, a young and beautiful geisha in training.

She looks up to her oneesan, who is both her mentor and friend. She admires her grace, beauty, and charm, and hopes to be like her someday. She shows her gratitude and respect by helping her oneesan some daily things, and supporting her at engagements. She listens attentively and laughs softly at tea parties, observing to learn the art of conversation. She also keeps refining her skills in music, dance, and etiquette, practicing diligently and patiently. 

After two to five years, when her okasan and teachers judge her ready, they hold for her the erikae (turning the collar) ceremony, a momentous occasion that marks her transition from a maiko to a geiko. She emerges as a true geiko, wearing a simpler but elegant kimono and a white collar. She feels proud and happy, knowing that she has achieved her dream.

It takes about five years for a young woman to become a geiko, but it is not a normal education. It is a rigorous and relentless training in traditional arts, where she must endure hardships, sweat, and tears. Even after becoming a geiko, she must keep practicing, as the profession demands excellence. She is a warrior of discipline, an artist of passion, and a prodigy of talent. She is a geiko.

Costumes of Maiko

Maiko’s makeup and costumes resemble a princess of the Heian period (794 – 1186) with an oval face, smooth white skin, black hair and bright red lips. Maiko’s kimono sleeves are long and wide to enhance grace, and the back collar is lowered to expose her elegant neck. Her hair is styled in a fan shape, adorned with jewels. To maintain her hairstyle, maiko sleeps on a rectangular wooden pillow. 

The maiko’s official outfit is a heavy and elaborate ensemble that weighs more than 20kg. It consists of two layers of kimono and several belts. The inner kimono is long and reaches the heel, with a bright red collar and floral patterns. The outer kimono is shorter and has intricate and aesthetic motifs. The most distinctive feature is the obi belt, which is up to 6 meters long and requires assistance to tie. Her dresser is usually a man, who inherits the craft, and often forms a lasting bond as a brother or uncle figure to the maiko and geiko.

Another feature that makes the maiko stand out is the 10-inch tall willow clogs. They have the finest red velvet straps. There is a hole in the bottom of the clog, in which a small bell hangs. When maiko walks, the bells ring gently, creating a soft merry music. Emi told me these tall wooden clogs make maiko take short graceful steps and keep her expensive sleeves and belt from getting dirty. Furthermore, the clattering of clogs on the road is a special tune announcing her arrival. 

Suddenly, we heard the sound of wooden clogs clattering from behind us. Under the yellow light, I caught a glimpse of a pretty girl wearing a pale yellow kimono with red and purple flowers, and a red belt with white cherry branches on it. In her black hair, the pearl white cherry flowers swayed in a charming curve. The inner garment beneath the knee-length kimono revealed the embroidered wavy lines and cherry blossoms. It was a fitting dress for the cherry blossom season, I suppose.

Seeing my eyes following her figure, Emi smiled, “She’s been a maiko for over a year.” She explained that the collar of her inner kimono would be bright red when she entered the stage of maiko. As the training progresses, the collar will be embroidered with more motifs. When the maiko’s collar is completely covered with patterns, she has come of age. She will perform the “turning the collar” ceremony, becoming a geiko and wearing a white collar. They are usually around 20 years old by then.

Miyako Odori: Dance of the Capital

After Emperor Meiji moved the capital to Tokyo, Kyoto gradually faded from its glory. To revive it, the city mayor and the headmaster of the Inoe dance school organized the first Miyako Odori (dance of the capital) in 1892. Since then, Miyako Odori has been staged every April. It is a precious opportunity for the public to witness the performance of geiko and maiko.

The stage is as splendid and elaborate as any world-class musical. The backdrop changes many times, reflecting the eight scenes of the festival: theme, four seasons, historical or literary story, Kyoto festival and ending. The stories often come from “The Tale of Genji”, a unique novel by the 11th-century poet and lady-in-waiting Murasaki Shikibu, set in the Heian dynasty’s capital, Kyoto.

Miyako Odori is a feast for the eyes that showcases the rich culture and history of Kyoto. The opening scene welcomes the guests and reveals the main theme. Then, the seasonal beauty of Kyoto unfolds, with kimonos and dances that match the changing colors and moods of nature. Spring blossoms, summer fireworks, autumn leaves, and winter snowflakes are all captured in stunning detail. 

Next, a historical or literary story that takes place in Kyoto is told, with elaborate costumes and props. The audience is transported to another time and place, where they witness the drama and romance of the characters. A traditional festival of Kyoto is also depicted, with lively music and dance. The stage is filled with energy, as the performers celebrate the customs and spirit of their city. Finally, all the actresses join in dazzling costumes for a grand finale, expressing their gratitude and joy. 

Miyako Odori is the culmination of months of intense practice by Gion’s maiko, geiko, and musicians. They pour their heart and soul into every dance, every song, every gesture. The public may not grasp the depth of their dedication and sacrifice, but for them, Miyako Odori is more than a performance. It is a celebration of their identity and heritage, a tribute to the timeless tradition of geisha in Gion.

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Don’t miss the next episode, where we will explore how geiko and maiko host their night parties.