P3 Ozashiki: Exclusive Party

What do geiko and maiko do in ozashiki, their unique tea party?

Tea Party Ozashiki

We strolled along the quiet street in Gion, the historic district of Kyoto where geiko and maiko live and work. From the ochaya, the exclusive teahouses where they entertain their guests, we heard bursts of singing, laughter and conversation. Emi, our guide, casually told us about an ozashiki, the term for geisha’s unique tea parties. 

She said the host invited guests to an ozashiki to talk business, socialize or both. Some ozashiki are held for birthday parties or family reunions. The party host could choose the maiko and geiko they like, or the ochaya would appoint them by themselves because they knew their guests well.

The relationship between an ochaya and its guests is often long-lasting and loyal, spanning across generations. Ochaya’s patrons usually come from prominent families of aristocratic origin, or the elite of politics, business, and entertainment. New people who want to attend the ozashiki must be invited or endorsed by old guests. In recent years, some ochaya have opened ozashiki for foreign guests to showcase the geisha culture, but these ozashiki are quite costly.

My friend was curious, “What are the proper clothes for ozashiki? Should the guests wear Japanese traditional costumes?” Emi replied: “Guests must dress formally, for example suits for men and dresses for women. Guests always wear socks, as they will have to take off their shoes before entering the tatami room.”

She continued: “As a foreign guest, you should be aware of the following points. You are not allowed to take pictures during ozashiki, unless you have permission. Don’t touch geiko and maiko or their clothes and jewelry, this is considered rude in Japanese culture. Geiko and maiko are friendly and courteous, but don’t ask them personal questions that might offend them. Don’t be surprised if you notice that maiko mostly smile and nod during the conversation because they are still learning the art of communication.”

Ozashiki often starts around 6 p.m. or later and lasts for about two hours. First, the guests enjoy kaiseki which is a multi-course meal of seasonal dishes and chat for about an hour. Then the geiko and maiko sing and dance. They also tell humorous stories and play interactive games with the guests, creating a cozy and cheerful atmosphere. An ozashiki is often a unique and memorable experience. 

Geiko and maiko don’t eat dinner before work, and they don’t eat at the party either. Before going to ozashiki, they usually spend time researching the guests and their interests. They want to make each guest feel special and appreciated. For example, if the guest is a politician, they will listen attentively to his vision for the country and ask insightful questions. If the guest is a musician, they will hum along to his catchy tunes and praise his creativity. If the guest is a female actress, they will admire her beauty and talent and share some tips on fashion and makeup. 

If their guests are foreigners, they will show their curiosity and hospitality by trying to know more about their guests’ country and culture. As a result, they become masters of conversation and charm over time. Coupled with their exquisite skills in dancing, singing, playing the instruments, tea ceremony, calligraphy and flower arrangement, geiko and maiko become splendid representatives of Japanese traditional arts.

As soon as Emi finished speaking, I was filled with curiosity: “Are geiko and maiko playing games with their guests during ozashiki? What games? What if the guests don’t speak Japanese?” 

Emi smiled, “The games are simple. Even if you don’t speak Japanese, you can still join in, but you need to be alert and quick. For example, in the Konpira, a maiko and a guest sit facing each other. On a small table between them is placed a wooden box. The maiko chants the Konpira rhyme and both of them tap the box in turns, following the rhythm. If one taps the box and snatches it away, the other one must touch the table with their fist. Who messes up or acts slower than the rhythm will lose.”

I nodded: “It doesn’t sound hard.” Emi chuckled, “It’s like the games you played when you were little. The key is that your mind must let go of all troubles and worries. Keep your mind as playful as when you were a child, then you can enjoy it.” 

I thought to myself, ‘Geiko and maiko are so smart: children’s games are a good way to both evoke the guests’ nostalgia and ease their sorrow and worries. They could be called “healers of the heart”.’

The Phoenix atop the Tower

Our fascinating Gion discovery of the geisha world with Emi was almost over. Emi revealed to us some more secrets about the life of maiko and geiko. Every night, maiko and geiko attend different ozashiki. They usually don’t get home until two o’clock in the morning. They quickly shower, grab a bite, unwind, and sleep, only to wake up around eight to ten o’clock next morning, depending on what time they have classes. 

Seeing my astonishment and admiration, Emi added: “Geisha is a profession that demands not only talent but also an iron will. They are revered in Japanese society like any other profession, even at a high level, because they pay a lot of sweat and tears to do their job well.” 

“But why are they putting white powder all over their faces? Without this powder, I think they would look much prettier.”

Emi smiled at my remark. “I agree with you, but this powder is part of the tradition. In the past, there were only dim candles or flickering torches, so the performers painted their faces white to make them more visible during night performances. In addition, nobles and samurai also painted their faces white when they met the king or regent, believing that white symbolized youth and nobility. Therefore, geisha and kabuki actors continue to maintain this tradition.”

I hesitantly asked the final question: “I learned that geisha don’t get married, but I’m not sure if that’s true.” Emi nodded: “That’s true. The maikos are too busy with courses, practice and apprenticeship, so they don’t have time for boyfriends. Geiko can live independently and have a lover, but if she is officially married, she can no longer be a geiko. As per the tradition, when a woman becomes a geisha, it means that she will dedicate her life to the art instead of a husband.”

We bid farewell to Emi, our delightful and knowledgeable Japanese guide, at the foot of Yasaka Pagoda. She had shown us the beauty and history of geisha in Gion, and we thanked her with warm hugs and smiles. 

My gaze soared to the peak of the majestic tower, which pierced the dark velvet of the night sky. I heard a legend of a tiny steel phoenix perched on the top of the spire. It ruled the sky with grace and power, befriending the clouds and winds. But it was lonely and brave, enduring the harsh test of the elements. Like a Kyoto geiko or maiko.

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