Saiho-ji: A Soul-Changing Moment

Nature and time have combined to create a masterpiece: Saiho-ji.

About Saiho-ji

Kyoto boasts a truly unique temple. Officially named Saiho-ji, this enchanting place is nicknamed Koke-dera, which translates to Moss Temple.

Living up to its name, Saiho-ji’s garden is a lush green carpet of moss. Founded in the 8th century, Saiho-ji experienced periods of abandonment until its restoration in the 14th century. The temple faced further challenges, becoming deserted after the 15th-century civil war and enduring two major floods in the 19th century. During these times, the resilient moss thrived, spreading its verdant beauty across the grounds.

In the mid-20th century, Saiho-ji underwent another restoration. The monks made the wise decision to preserve the ancient moss garden as an integral part of the temple’s landscape. Thanks to their foresight, we can now marvel at this timeless masterpiece.

More than 120 types of moss flourish here, creating a mesmerizing tapestry of green. From the velvety smooth moss to the coniferous one that resembles trembling tiny stars emitting a mysterious green glow, the diversity is astounding. Moss blankets the ground, clings to rocks, and adorns old, cracked tree trunks. Seamlessly, it blends with the garden and rocks, shaped by the artistic hands of nature.

Zen master Muso Soseki, who designed the temple grounds in the 14th century, would probably be astonished to see the moss garden today. His original vision was a Zen-style rock landscape, and Saiho-ji was the first place in Japan to feature this type of design. 

The garden showcases a winding path along the edge of the large Golden Pond. However, the pond’s shape isn’t a gold ingot but is said to present the word “heart”. Now, before you jump to the conclusion that the pond has a heart shape, this is the Japanese word for “heart”: 心 (kokoro). Surprisingly, it looks more similar to a gold ingot, doesn’t it?

The pond meanders gracefully, weaving around three intriguingly shaped islands named “Sunrise,” “Sunset,” and “Mist.” Delicate stone bridges arch from the shore to the islands or link the banks. The pond’s edges are a delightful mix of terrains: some gently slope down to kiss the water’s surface, others stand tall and straight like a wall, and a few rise abruptly into rugged mounds of earth. 

In order to protect its serene purity, Saiho-ji opens its doors exclusively to visitors who have made advance reservations. To secure your visit, register at least two months in advance. Each account can register up to two people. The temple will then provide the exact date and time based on visitor numbers. To preserve the tranquil atmosphere, daily visitor slots are limited and carefully scheduled to avoid disturbing the monks.

Another unique challenge awaits: visitors are invited to copy the Heart Sutra before exploring the garden. Having conquered the first challenge, I was ready to face the second with confidence.

Moss has changed my soul…

I visited Saiho-ji in the afternoon during the early spring in Japan. Warm sunlight bathed the stone-paved path leading from the simple gate to the main hall. Guided to the right, visitors passed a small pond where lotus flowers swayed gently, releasing their delicate fragrance. We entered the side of the main hall, where people sit to copy sutras. Inside, low black-painted wooden tables rested quietly on red carpets, as if in meditation.

The paper in front of me had 49 Chinese characters of the Heart Sutra lightly printed on it. All I needed to do was use a black brush to trace the words. The guide mentioned that the sutra paper had been recited for blessings that morning. After copying, we could either take the sutra home or donate it to the temple to be burned during the prayer ceremony. 

When I inquired about the choice of the Heart Sutra, the answer was straightforward: it’s concise, easy to transcribe, and embodies the Buddha’s peaceful and compassionate heart, rendering it the most profound of all sutras.

After copying the sutras, my heart felt a serene peace. Stepping out into the garden, I wandered along the winding path under the cool shade of the trees. On both sides, the moss undulated in vibrant green, and in some spots, it gleamed golden under the sunlight. The moss wasn’t just on the banks; it also adorned the bottom of the pond, visible through the clear water. 

Occasionally, a nightingale would swoop down, perch on a branch, and serenade us with its beautiful song. A few trees leaned over, dipping their branches into the pond as if yearning to touch the water.

Suddenly, clouds drifted over the sun, and the sunlight vanished as if it had remembered a game of hide-and-seek. A light rain began to fall, and the moss turned a deep, joyful green. The atmosphere became tranquil and contemplative. 

Standing indifferently on the pond’s bank, a wooden boat materialized before my eyes. This scene, this feeling – it all seemed hauntingly familiar. Was it from Nguyen Khuyen’s poem “Autumn Fishing”?

“The autumn pond is cold, the water clear, 

A small fishing boat sits lonely here. 

Waves follow ripples from the breeze, 

To the ground, twirl down the yellow leaves.”

Spring rain tiptoed in, then quietly slipped away. Sunlight reappeared, caressing leaves and teasing the moss. The moss continued to cradle rocks and soil in its cool arms. As the wind wandered by, it gently stroked branches, rustling the leaves. An old melody suddenly hummed in my mind: 

“Wondering the age of moss-clad stones, 

And the distance the wind has roamed the heavens…” 

(“Stone’s tears”, music by Tran Trinh, lyrics by Ha Huyen Chi)

That moment was so beautiful and yet so elusive, forever becoming a fleeting memory in my mind. 

Saiho-ji, unassuming in its simplicity, held an inexplicable allure that kept me lingering. Perhaps it was the moment when I ceased to be just myself and merged with the earth, rocks, sun, wind, and moss. In that instance, gratitude for the serendipitous opportunities that led me there welled up within me, and I discovered something indelible.

In the quiet embrace of Saiho-ji, I found a timeless connection to nature – a profound peace that changed my soul forever. 

mlefood – Minh Lê