The Allure of Hanoi’s Chilled Snail Dip

Savor Hanoi’s delights: chilled snail dip & hot snail noodle soup.

Chilled Snail Dip

The book Miếng ngon Hà Nội (Delicious Dishes of Hanoi) by writer Vu Bang ignited my passion for culinary literature, particularly Northern Vietnamese cuisine. Vu Bang’s writing vividly portrays the landscapes, people, and exquisite dishes of an era marked by elegance and luxury. Among many delectable dishes he documented, one stands out with high praise: “It is a street food, which can be said to reach the top of the culinary art of the Hanoians” (Van Hoc Publishing House, 1993, p. 119).

What is this dish? It is bún ốc nguội, or chilled snail dip! Also known as “vinegared snails” or “cool snail noodles,” this dish is distinct from its hot counterpart. As the name suggests, it is enjoyed chilled, with the key to its deliciousness lying in the bowl of vinegared broth used for dipping the noodles.

In Hanoi, the villages of Phap Van and Khuong Thuong are renowned for their chilled snail dip. Journalist Vu Thi Tuyet Nhung noted: “Selling chilled snail dip is a traditional profession of Phap Van village in Thanh Tri area. This low-lying village, abundant with crabs and snails, is adjacent to Tu Ky village, known for its rice noodles. Phap Van’s chilled snail dip pairs perfectly with Tu Ky’s noodles” (Hanoi’s Nostalgic Aroma and Taste, Part 2, Hanoi Publishing House, 2023, p. 43).

The elegant, capable, and hard-working vendors of Phap Van leisurely walked through the ancient streets of Hanoi, their shoulder poles “not lying exactly in the middle of the pole but often placed a little off to the side” because “the baskets at two ends of the pole are of different weights.” Vu Thi Tuyet Nhung referenced the old proverb: “Tu Ky carries poles in the middle, Phap Van carries it off the side.” (cited book, p. 43) Unfortunately, she did not reveal what the vendor’s two baskets contained to cause the weight difference.

Nowadays, chilled snail dip vendors often set up permanent spots along small streets. It is said that the shop near Quan Chuong Gate, originally from Khuong Thuong village, and the stall on Bui Thi Xuan Street are the best. Ms. Lan, who operates on Bui Thi Xuan, usually opens at 11 a.m., and within two hours, her goods are sold out, leaving latecomers regretfully empty-handed.

Ms. Lan’s stall is arranged in traditional Vietnamese style. “Bamboo trays for snails, old bamboo chopsticks, earthenware jars for dipping broth, small bamboo ladles for scooping, bamboo tubes with toothpicks, dozens of slender-waisted bowls… Everything is simple and clean” (Phong Linh, “30-Year-Old Chilled Snail Dip Stall”). Bamboo, earthenware, and porcelain all contribute to an ancient and subtle aesthetic.

The shiny black bamboo ladle is used for scooping the vinegared broth because vinegar reacts poorly with metal. The elegant slender-waisted bowls come in two colors, blue and white, with small bottoms and flared mouths, allowing the upper part of the broth to cool quickly while the lower part remains warm.

The main ingredient of chilled snail dip is, of course, the snails. Ms. Lan always selects medium-sized, fresh, and delicious snails with smooth, dark brown shells. The snails must be soaked for a full day in rice-washing water mixed with a bit of fermented rice to release all the slime and eliminate the fishy smell. After soaking, the snails are boiled, and the water is filtered until it becomes clear.

Rumor has it that Ms. Lan has a secret method for preparing the snails: “From the old folks’ stories, I guess Ms. Lan steams the snails with water mixed with good rice vinegar at the bottom of the pot, so that all the snail’s essence drops into the water. Then, in that steaming broth, she adds a pair of peanut worms, which are very expensive but give the dipping broth a sweet, mild taste and a light brown color that cannot be mistaken. This is based on what I heard from the old folks, but Ms. Lan definitely won’t reveal her family’s secret.” (Phong Linh)

Mrs. Vuong Thi Thu Huong presented another method in the book Ẩm Thực Tu Tri, published in 1930 in Hanoi: “Stir-fry shallots in fat until fragrant, then filter the snail broth. Add fish sauce, salt, a little fermented rice, star fruit, tomato, a bit of galangal, turmeric, and chili. Boil thoroughly, crush the star fruit and tomato. Remove from heat and filter out the residue. When the broth cools down, add a few drops of giant water bug essence to enhance the flavor” (Tan Dan Publishing House, 1930, p. 140).

Perhaps in the 1940s, writer Vu Bang enjoyed chilled snail dip in the same way as Mrs. Huong, as he wrote: “The snails floating in a bowl of chilled snail dip are so poetically alluring: the snails are plump, the fermented rice is tangy, and there are a few slices of star fruit and pieces of tomato, contributing to its richness” (cited book, p. 119)

Is that all? Oh, I almost forgot the rice noodles. They must be “the type of noodles squeezed into a small, pretty spiral shape like a coin, called mussel noodles or snail noodles” from Tu Ky village (Vu Thi Tuyet Nhung, cited book, p. 42). As soon as Vu Bang saw “the white noodle discs as big as silver coins on a green banana leaf”, he “couldn’t wait any longer and had to eat it right away, otherwise I would be miserable.”

How to eat it? Let me give the floor to the expert: “Pick up a disc of noodles and dip it in the broth, or slurp a bit of the broth and then pick up a snail and taste it. You will feel a refreshing shiver because the broth you just slurped is both fragrant and rich, sour and spicy.” (Vu Bang, cited book, p. 119)

I don’t know about you, but I felt an electric current running down my spine, making my whole body ecstatic along with the writer. It is true that “after eating a small tray of noodles like that, sometimes tears flow out, as if crying.” (p. 120) The writer also said that those tears were “more meaningful than the tears of love.” He is truly my culinary literature idol, everything he says is profound.

Hot Snail Noodle Soup

Chef Nguyen Phuong Hai, owner of the YouTube channel Cung Chau Vao Bep, is passionate about traditional Vietnamese cuisine. His efforts to recreate ancient Northern Vietnamese dishes are admirable. 

According to him, hot snail noodle soup originated in Hanoi in the 1960s when customers requested vendors to heat up the dipping broth of chilled snail dip and replace the noodle discs with regular rice noodles, along with adding vegetables. In prosperous times, the soup has been enriched with Vietnamese hams, meatballs, beef, and other ingredients.

I think Nguyen Phuong Hai is right. However, I want to add that hot snail noodle soup already existed in 1930, although it may not have been widely circulated. Mrs. Vuong Thi Thu Huong refers to it in her book: “Marinate snail meat with salt, fish sauce, and chili for a while, then stir-fry it with garlic and fat until fragrant. Put crabs in a pot and simmer thoroughly, filter out the residue, and add fermented rice, tomatoes, and star fruit, then boil again. Pour in stir-fried snails, steamed crab roe, and green onions, and eat with rice noodles. It’s very delicious.” (cited book, p. 141).

Chef Nguyen Phuong Hai cooks hot snail noodle soup in a simpler way. He soaks the snails in rice-washing water, chili and chili powder, then scrubs the snails thoroughly, then boils them in water with some salt. He carefully notes that the snails should only be boiled for a minute or two until the snail operculums peel off. Then, remove the snails immediately to ensure the meat remains soft and sweet. 

Combine the clear snail broth with bone broth and bring to a boil. Fry the shallots until golden, then stir-fry the chopped tomatoes until fragrant. Strain the tomato pulp and add the sauce to the broth. Add tomato wedges, season to taste, and finish with fermented sticky rice vinegar for a mild, fragrant sourness.

He places rice noodles and snail meat into a bowl, sprinkles green onions and perilla on top, and then pours in the hot broth. Bright red tomatoes stand out against the shimmering golden broth, alongside the charming black and white snails. The fragrant aroma of perilla and green onions, the slightly sour scent of fermented rice vinegar, and the earthy smell of snails fill the air.

Chilled snail dip and hot snail noodle soup are the culinary masterpieces of elegant, ancient Hanoi. May these treasures endure the test of time and overcome any apathy, preserving the delicate and refined beauty of a bygone era.

mlefood – Minh Lê