The Exquisite Art of Kaiseki

What is the art of kaiseki in both its creation and enjoyment?

The Art of Kaiseki Chefs and Restaurants

One could say that each kaiseki chef is a master artist. They possess not only exceptional skills but also a refined sense of color, flavor, texture, and ingredients, crafting kaiseki dishes that are true works of art. Their creativity and aesthetic prowess in presenting dishes are on par with the finest professional artists.

The chef’s work begins with the very selection of ingredients. They carefully consider which ingredients to use, how to cook them, and for how long, much like an artist meticulously visualizing their masterpiece. The seasoning, timing, and handling of each ingredient are all thoughtfully and creatively planned out.

Chef Kunio Tokuoka of the three-Michelin-starred restaurant Kyoto Kitcho confided, “Combining and harmonizing ingredients in different ways creates dishes with different flavors. That makes me excited every time I step into the kitchen.” His sole purpose is “to be able to touch your heart with the food I cook.” (Source: “The Most Beautiful Restaurant in Japan – Kyoto Kitcho,” Eatyourkimchi Studio, YouTube)

To maximize the flavor of the ingredients, the kaiseki chef must choose the right knife and make precise cuts. Kaiseki dishes are typically small and delicate, and ensuring the tiny pieces retain their aroma, flavor, and texture after cooking is a true culinary feat.

The Japanese have been renowned for their knife-making and knife-using artistry since the 9th century, when samurai showcased their skills by cutting fish and meat in front of guests at banquets. Kaiseki chefs master this art, refining it through their own experiences, and elevating the culinary use of knives to its highest level. They can debone a small fish without breaking it and effortlessly slice fish paper-thin.

Kaiseki restaurants boast not only passionate and sophisticated chefs but also a unique flair in their decoration and service. The decor changes monthly and seasonally to create an elegant and comfortable atmosphere. These restaurants aren’t opulent; they are exquisite in every detail, just like the kaiseki dishes themselves. Whether it’s a delicate flower branch quietly emitting its fragrance or a seasonal landscape painting, a true kaiseki restaurant always brings a sense of peace and serenity to its diners.

The restaurant’s staff are always attentive, friendly, and hospitable. Even if you don’t speak Japanese, their facial expressions and gestures will make you feel at ease in this “aristocratic” setting. The dishes are served promptly, ensuring a smooth and seamless dining experience. You can leisurely savor every flavor and moment of this memorable meal.

Refined Kaiseki Dining Etiquette

There are two ways to enjoy kaiseki. The traditional way is to sit in a tatami room with a low Japanese table, where you can immerse yourself in the ancient Japanese atmosphere and culture. However, sitting cross-legged on the mat for several hours can be quite challenging. If you choose this way, don’t forget to wear socks and avoid sitting or stepping on the edges of the tatami, as it is considered impolite in Japanese culture.

Those who are not used to sitting cross-legged for long periods of time can choose to sit at a Western-style high table. You won’t get to admire the Japanese-style tatami room, but your legs will probably thank you. Additionally, some kaiseki restaurants have long tables in front of an open kitchen. When you sit here, you can admire the chefs cutting, cooking and presenting the dish right before your eyes. Isn’t that a rare opportunity?

If you stay in a ryokan (traditional Japanese inn) and enjoy kaiseki in your room, get ready to embrace the traditional seating style. A little tip: before snapping “selfie” photos with the lavish spread, don’t forget to wear the yukata (a simple kimono) provided in the room. It adds that authentic cultural touch to your experience!

Kaiseki in a ryokan is often served with multiple dishes at once, which remains a mystery to me. Is it to avoid frequent trips in and out of the guest’s private room, or to let the guest enjoy the meal at their own pace? With the impeccable thoughtfulness of the Japanese, it’s likely a bit of both.

The art of kaiseki not only demands a high level of dedication from its creators but also requires some coordination from the diners. Since we’ve come to Japan, we should embrace the local customs, especially when experiencing a culinary masterpiece like kaiseki.

First, if you order sake, take the first sip before the appetizer. Remember to enjoy sake with the dishes in between, but avoid drinking it while eating rice. From the Japanese point of view, both rice and sake are made from rice, so consuming them together is considered redundant. For this reason, they prefer to drink beer or fruit juice instead of sake when eating sushi.

When you eat sashimi, add a little wasabi to the fish before dipping it lightly into soy sauce. This way, you can savor the warmth of the wasabi and the freshness of the raw seafood. But be careful not to overdo the wasabi, or you might end up crying like a baby! Remember to rest your chopsticks on the chopstick rest, not on the bowl or plate. This not only shows that you are cultured but also helps you avoid mishaps like dropping chopsticks on the table or floor.

When eating soup and rice, lift the bowl with your left hand rather than leaving it on the table. This gesture shows appreciation and respect for the food and the chef. If it’s a clear soup, hold the bowl with both hands and sip a bit of broth first to savor its delicate, refined taste. While sipping, avoid making noise to maintain decorum. 

If the soup comes in a lidded bowl, hold the bowl with your left hand, open the lid with your right hand, and rotate it slightly so the steam falls back into the bowl. Place the lid gently on the table without making a sound. After finishing the soup, close the lid as before.

The final etiquette involves some simple sayings. Let’s follow the example of the Japanese people. Before eating, they say “Itadakimasu” (Please allow me to start the meal.). When finishing the meal, they say “Gochisousama deshita!” (Thank you for preparing the meal!). While saying these, they clasp their hands together or place their hands in their lap and bow their heads slightly.

By following these simple sayings and gestures, you show respect for the efforts and skills of those who prepared the art of kaiseki. As a reward, you may be considered a cultured and knowledgeable tourist.

Don’t worry too much about these little etiquettes. They are simply guidelines to help you relax and behave appropriately, so you can fully immerse yourself in the art of kaiseki. Just be attentive and polite, and you’re sure to have a wonderful kaiseki experience.

mlefood – Minh Lê