Yusheng vs. Hoedeopbap

Yusheng vs. hoedeopbap: similar yet different!

Both yusheng and hoedeopbap showcase the vibrant combination of raw fish and shredded vegetables and fruits, yet they offer completely distinct flavors and styles. These differences highlight the culinary creativity and cultural uniqueness of each dish.

Singapore: Yusheng

Knowing that I have a passion for writing about food, my professor from Singapore once sent me a picture of yusheng (pronounced yee-sang) with the intriguing question: “Can you research this dish?” This request was as challenging and fascinating as the questions he posed in his classes. Thanks to him, I discovered a unique and delightful dish cherished by the Chinese communities in Singapore and Malaysia.

In the early 19th century, Chinese immigrants from Guangdong and Teochew brought yusheng with them to Singapore. The Cantonese people ate yusheng on the seventh day of the Lunar New Year to wish for good luck in the coming year, while the Teochew people enjoyed yusheng throughout the New Year festivities. Yusheng (鱼生) literally means “raw fish”, but it also symbolizes “more and more abundance”. This is because the word yu (鱼) sounds like yu (余), meaning “abundance”, and sheng (生) sounds like sheng (升), meaning “more and more”.

The original yusheng consisted of raw fish, sesame, sweet and sour sauce, and vegetables, all mixed together. In 1964, four innovative chefs – Sin Leong, Hooi Kok Wai, Tham Yui Kai, and Lau Yoke Pui – decided to reinvent yusheng to attract more customers. They not only added a few new ingredients to enhance the flavor but also composed auspicious wishes to accompany each ingredient. This creative twist turned the yusheng served at Lai Wah restaurant into a hit in the following years.

Yusheng now typically includes 11 ingredients, each accompanied by a wish. For example, carrots symbolizes good luck, sesame seeds bring prosperity, peanuts promise “more gold and silver” and plum sauce ensures happiness. The dish also features grapefruit, apples, pears, white radishes, coriander, and a variety of other vegetables, depending on the chef’s preference. Naturally, raw fish, often salmon, is a must-have. And let’s not forget the golden crispy crackers as “lucky gold bars”, adding a delightful crunch and a touch of luck to this vibrant dish.

When it comes to sauces and seasonings, yusheng typically includes plum sauce, lemon juice, cooking oil, sesame oil, pepper, and either cinnamon powder or five-spice powder. The oil and sauce are artfully drizzled in a circle, symbolizing “wealth coming from all directions”.

Then comes the most exciting part: everyone grabs their chopsticks and enthusiastically tosses the ingredients into the air. The higher the toss, the better the luck! That’s why in Cantonese, yusheng is also known as “lo hei” or “tossing up.” 

I’m curious if yusheng tastes just as good after all that enthusiastic tossing – maybe it comes with a side of “gravity seasoning”! I’ll have to wait until my next trip to Singapore during the Lunar New Year holiday and convince my professor to take me on a yusheng taste-test adventure to find out.

However, to a foodie and culture enthusiast like me, yusheng stands out for its masterful blend of food and culture, leading to brilliant economic success. In today’s materially abundant world, people don’t choose food or drinks solely for their taste; they are drawn to the stories and cultural values embedded within them. Yusheng’s rich heritage and symbolic significance make it more than just a dish – it’s an experience that connects people to their traditions and shared history.

South Korea: Hoedeopbap

There’s a Korean dish with ingredients similar to yusheng, but it’s enjoyed in the summer and has distinct Korean characteristics – it’s quite spicy. This dish is hoedeopbap, with “hoe” meaning “raw fish” and “deopbap” meaning “to cover rice”, making it a straightforward and easy-to-understand name: rice covered with raw fish.

Before you jump to the conclusion that hoedeopbap is just a bowl of rice topped with raw fish, hold your chopsticks! If that were the case, we’d have a pretty short story on our hands. Legend has it that this dish originated during the Joseon dynasty as a snack for noble children after playtime. In addition to fish and rice, hoedeopbap also included vegetables, fruits, and sauce. Eventually, hoedeopbap made its way onto the streets, becoming a popular street food and gradually evolving into a beloved family dish in Korea.

The three indispensable “characters” in hoedeopbap are rice, fish, and chogochujang sauce. Cold rice is a must, as hot rice can make raw fish and vegetables less fresh. Raw tuna and salmon are the most commonly used, with white fish like grouper making an occasional appearance. Chogochujang sauce is crafted from traditional gochujang chili paste, mixed with sugar, vinegar, garlic, and sesame. For those who crave an extra kick, a dash of chili powder can be added to amp up the spiciness to suit the Korean taste.

Vegetables and fruits are extras that you can customize to your heart’s content. Lettuce, perilla, basil, and sprouts all work wonderfully, along with carrots, cabbage, cucumbers, apples, pears, green and red peppers, all cut into long, thin strips. Although they are not the main “characters”, it is the refreshing taste of these vegetables and fruits that makes hoedeopbap a favorite dish in Korea during the hot summer months.

When everything is ready in the bowl, resist the urge to toss it up like yusheng – you might end up looking like an alien to the Koreans! Instead, gently pick up the spoon (forget about the chopsticks for now!) and mix all the ingredients together. Then, dive in with that spoon. The sticky rice pairs perfectly with the soft raw fish, fresh vegetables, crunchy fruit, and sweet and sour chili sauce. Hoedeopbap is so delicious that you’ll forget your spicy tolerance has just skyrocketed!

Yusheng and hoedeopbap share many similar ingredients, yet their presentation, flavor, and method of eating are distinct. These differences arise from the unique traditions, cultures, and tastes of each ethnic group, creating a diverse, colorful, and captivating culinary world. Understanding food not only pleases the palate but also deepens our appreciation for the stories behind each dish, transforming enjoyment into a thrilling and exciting discovery.

mlefood – Minh Lê